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Routes in East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Adrenaline Surfer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Assembly Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Back to Montana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Belle Fourche Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Broken Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Buckspeck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Burning Daylight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Casper College T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dump Watt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Everlasting T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fruity Pebbles T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gooseberry Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hourglass, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hubba Bubba T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maid in the Shaid T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Missed Opportunity T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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New Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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NORTH FACE RAPPEL ROUTE TR 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Patent Pending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path Through Enlightenment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2-3 |
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Pinball Wizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- |
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Sassenach's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Soaring T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spectator Sport T A2- |
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Stepping Out of Flatland T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Surfer Girl T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Team Ropin S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Witchie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dingus McGee? |
| Page Views: | 1,195 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Collins on Sep 10, 2004 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
In the Poorperson's guide, this climb is given the coveted 'E' rating for the highest quality climbs on the Tower. In other words, 5 stars on a 5 star scale. I only climbed the first pitch, but that was all I needed to see.
Begin on the NE face around to the left from the staging area for New Wave and Broken Tree. Look for a line of modern bolts just left of a mossy trough. The 1st pitch follows the bolts to a belay stance below a small roof. Though rated 5.9, it climbs much harder since nearly all of the holds on this pitch seem on the verge of breaking. Without a doubt the worst pitch I've yet to climb at the Tower. Even my second took a pass on this one. A good exercise in climbing lightly on loose stuff, I guess.
From the belay, the 2nd pitch looks like a short dihedral affair to the top of a pillar. Rock quality looks sub-par to say the least. The 2nd pitch can be easily linked with the first if you are so inclined to proceed.
What attracted me to this climb was the 3rd pitch. "A must for aspiring Tower stemmers," the guide says. Well, if that involves stemming through bushes, then no thanks. Lots of vegetation from top to bottom, with a particularly menacing looking bush at two-thirds height. If you go up there, definitely look out for that one.
I post the route here only to warn others about the quality discrepancy. I don't think anyone has been up there for many, many years. I don't know, maybe with regular traffic this would be the classic that the guide claims it to be.
Which brings me to the question, are there any climbs worth doing on this section of the Tower? Everything in this area looked like it had been reclaimed by crack flora.
Begin on the NE face around to the left from the staging area for New Wave and Broken Tree. Look for a line of modern bolts just left of a mossy trough. The 1st pitch follows the bolts to a belay stance below a small roof. Though rated 5.9, it climbs much harder since nearly all of the holds on this pitch seem on the verge of breaking. Without a doubt the worst pitch I've yet to climb at the Tower. Even my second took a pass on this one. A good exercise in climbing lightly on loose stuff, I guess.
From the belay, the 2nd pitch looks like a short dihedral affair to the top of a pillar. Rock quality looks sub-par to say the least. The 2nd pitch can be easily linked with the first if you are so inclined to proceed.
What attracted me to this climb was the 3rd pitch. "A must for aspiring Tower stemmers," the guide says. Well, if that involves stemming through bushes, then no thanks. Lots of vegetation from top to bottom, with a particularly menacing looking bush at two-thirds height. If you go up there, definitely look out for that one.
I post the route here only to warn others about the quality discrepancy. I don't think anyone has been up there for many, many years. I don't know, maybe with regular traffic this would be the classic that the guide claims it to be.
Which brings me to the question, are there any climbs worth doing on this section of the Tower? Everything in this area looked like it had been reclaimed by crack flora.
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