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Soak on Saturday 
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Soak on Saturday 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gary Fike/Tonia Fike
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Xavier Wasiak on Jul 9, 2012
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Description 

On the face between Disneyesque and the left facing large corner are a couple of cracks and very shallow corners/flakes that lead up and slightly to the right to join the big corner. The rock is loose but the climbing relatively safe. I did not find the anchor to this one and it appears that you could break left to reach the anchors of Disneyesque towards the top. I did not, until I had passed the anchors about 6-7 feet to my left and climbed harder territory, past an overhang and some blocks. Beware.


Location 

Just to the left of the large corner, and to the right of disneyesque.


Protection 

Good selection of gear up to #3, maybe a #4 BD. See above for word on anchors.



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By Kurt Howes
Nov 11, 2013

I didn't find the anchor either and had a bit of an ordeal dealing with the loose rock above and no good place for a gear anchor higher up. Not a good walk-off. Thought about ducking left to anchors on "Disneyesque" but it didn't look prudent. The guide book shows anchors but I never saw em'. There is an excellent place for some though and I'll bring my drill next time; unless I'm missing something?