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Routes in (2) Warm-Up Wall
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All In S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ben S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Breathe Right S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Injured Reserve S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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KAPOW! S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Laura S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Purdy Mouth S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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So Low S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Swahili Slang S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Take That Katie Brown S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Techno Destructo S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Three Wasted Bolts T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Trust in Jesus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Brian McCray in 1995 |
| Page Views: | 951 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Apr 13, 2015 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned.
Description
At a crag where steep is king, this quality vertical route is severely ignored. With cool, grooved rock, and thin, intricate moves this forgotten line will have you feeling humble no matter what you just cruised in the cave.
Thirty feet of easy patina climbing on mediocre rock set you up in a huge, deteriorating hueco below the very sustained headwall. Make a hard move out of the hueco to some small edges(crux) and then move left to better holds. Crimp past another hard section and keep it together until you hit some big holds. Rest up, then make a weird move to reach more good holds. Subtle slopers lead up and right to better holds and the chains. No need to use the crack below the chains(unless you want to).
Besides a little lichen and the tree just left of the route, this line is very nice. Definitely deserves more traffic. Rated 12b in the guide, but felt like solid 12c at least. Much harder than Swahili Slang.
Stays dry after heavy rain.
Thirty feet of easy patina climbing on mediocre rock set you up in a huge, deteriorating hueco below the very sustained headwall. Make a hard move out of the hueco to some small edges(crux) and then move left to better holds. Crimp past another hard section and keep it together until you hit some big holds. Rest up, then make a weird move to reach more good holds. Subtle slopers lead up and right to better holds and the chains. No need to use the crack below the chains(unless you want to).
Besides a little lichen and the tree just left of the route, this line is very nice. Definitely deserves more traffic. Rated 12b in the guide, but felt like solid 12c at least. Much harder than Swahili Slang.
Stays dry after heavy rain.
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