|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Joe Keyser on Apr 14, 2002|
|Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on So Honed Yet So Stoned||Add Comment|
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Jun 10, 2003
|I saw a few of the boys hammerin' away up there, sounds like new bolts to me.looks like another hippie debate about saving the children's future and the rest of the nonsence that follows.|
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 8, 2003
|Replaced the top two old quarter inchers with 3/8". Used the same holes. I don't add bolts to existing climbs like some folks.|
By Shane Zentner
Sep 19, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun climb right off the ground! Climb the difficult slab about fifteen feet to an old 1/4" bolt, then climb another 15 feet to another 1/4" bolt, then run it out about twenty five feet to a decent hold(the only one so far), slot a couple of small stoppers, work right then up to a stance. Place two marginal(VERY marginal) small cams(I used a #1 and #2 Metolius - these cam placements wouldn't hold a cat), climb up onto the slab under the newer bolt, make a committing move and clip the bolt.
Now the fun begins. From the bolt, head straight up on very difficult slab to another newer bolt about ten feet higher. Climb the remaining 5.7 slab to a big boulder.
Fun with hard, slabby moves!