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Routes in North Buttress
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Aces and Eights S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Appetite For Destruction S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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B-52 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bucket List S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cherry Popper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cinco De Side-pull S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dead Man's Hand S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Death From Above S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gila Monster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Great Northern S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hard Times S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hell Freezes Over S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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House Always Wins, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pre-op Therapy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Prymal Instinct S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shell Shock S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Short Stop S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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So Easy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Suicide Jack S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Scott Ayers, Anders Zway, Mark Hathaway 2011 |
| Page Views: | 956 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | RyanJames on May 13, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: - Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land.
In 2015, Access Fund acquired key privately owned access parcels when foreclosed on by the bank to keep it in climbing-friendly hands. Please park and camp on Access Fund property and take the new trail down. Please donate today at accessfund.org/homestead to secure permanent access and conservation of the Homestead.
Description
Pull up and on to the beautiful, baby's-butt like limestone to a decent jug. While the wall looks virtually blank, holds appear. The crux comes after the third bolt - from here, traverse to the left on crappy feet and small crimps; reach way out left to a sidepull and you're done with the technical crux.
After this low crux, the route eases off a bit for a couple bolts then becomes increasingly more inverted as you climb to a noticable cave under the roof. Climb into the cave, crack open a beer (if that's your thang), and enjoy the exposure: you'll be looking several hundred feet down into the canyon below.
The next crux comes as you pull the roof above the cave. After this, flow up through the fun fingerlocks while the route again becomes more overhanging to the anchors.
This route will definitely become one of the signature routes of the North Butt.
After this low crux, the route eases off a bit for a couple bolts then becomes increasingly more inverted as you climb to a noticable cave under the roof. Climb into the cave, crack open a beer (if that's your thang), and enjoy the exposure: you'll be looking several hundred feet down into the canyon below.
The next crux comes as you pull the roof above the cave. After this, flow up through the fun fingerlocks while the route again becomes more overhanging to the anchors.
This route will definitely become one of the signature routes of the North Butt.
Photos
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