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North Buttress
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So Easy 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Season: All year long! North-facing!
Page Views: 476
Submitted By: RyanJames on May 13, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pull up and on to the beautiful, baby's-butt like limestone to a decent jug. While the wall looks virtually blank, holds appear. The crux comes after the third bolt - from here, traverse to the left on crappy feet and small crimps; reach way out left to a sidepull and you're done with the technical crux.

After this low crux, the route eases off a bit for a couple bolts then becomes increasingly more inverted as you climb to a noticable cave under the roof. Climb into the cave, crack open a beer (if that's your thang), and enjoy the exposure: you'll be looking several hundred feet down into the canyon below.

The next crux comes as you pull the roof above the cave. After this, flow up through the fun fingerlocks while the route again becomes more overhanging to the anchors.

This route will definitely become one of the signature routes of the North Butt.

Location 

This route is located at about the middle of the North Buttress wall. It climbs into a cave-like orifice in the wall.

Protection 

12 bolts


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By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
May 13, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This route is awesome!
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Oct 26, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Full value amazing route.
By Joseph M.
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Full value with many thought-provoking sections! The sit-down hueco feature/rest makes this route an instant classic!!
By Red
From: Arizona
Oct 1, 2012

The only shitty part about this route, is that shitty part... getting into the cave. The rest of the route makes it worthy of the four stars.