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So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Red Devil
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Berserker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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East Face Right/Red Devil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Friend of the Devil TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Hell Freezes Over S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hell in a Bucket S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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North Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Paradise Lost S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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South Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Super-spreader S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Deb Thompson, LP |
| Page Views: | 797 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Apr 22, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is a short, little route that came to be by wandering up to Red Devil and looking for something new.
Down and right from Paradise Lost on the South Face, there are lots of flakes and features. The challenge comes in linking protectable features with reasonable protection. There is room for more, but here's a start.
P1. Start up just uphill from a dropoff. Note, the holds can be fragile, so trust carefully. The first solid protection is a #4 Camalot in the second crack/groove perhaps 20 feet up. Then wander up fiddling mostly wires between flakes until you are just below the East Face. Angle left on highly featured rock. Gain the East Face where the protection peters out (this section is the left version of Beserker). Pass 2 smaller trees which you can sling. Belay at a larger tree in a groove. 180', 5.7 PG-13.
P2. Continue up and slightly left intersecting the P1 belay ledge for Hell Freezes Over. 60', 5.2. Rap 95'.
You could probably traverse leftward at the top of P1 to the belay for Paradise Lost.
Down and right from Paradise Lost on the South Face, there are lots of flakes and features. The challenge comes in linking protectable features with reasonable protection. There is room for more, but here's a start.
P1. Start up just uphill from a dropoff. Note, the holds can be fragile, so trust carefully. The first solid protection is a #4 Camalot in the second crack/groove perhaps 20 feet up. Then wander up fiddling mostly wires between flakes until you are just below the East Face. Angle left on highly featured rock. Gain the East Face where the protection peters out (this section is the left version of Beserker). Pass 2 smaller trees which you can sling. Belay at a larger tree in a groove. 180', 5.7 PG-13.
P2. Continue up and slightly left intersecting the P1 belay ledge for Hell Freezes Over. 60', 5.2. Rap 95'.
You could probably traverse leftward at the top of P1 to the belay for Paradise Lost.
Location
This is located down and right from Paradise Lost on the South Face just uphill from a dropoff.
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