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 ADVANCED
Red Devil
Select Route:
Berserker T 
East Face Right/Red Devil T 
Hell Freezes Over S 
Paradise Lost S 
So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It T 
South Face T 

So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Deb Thompson, LP
Page Views: 198
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 23, 2011

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This is the approximate line.

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a short, little route that came to be by wandering up to Red Devil and looking for something new.

Down and right from Paradise Lost on the South Face, there are lots of flakes and features. The challenge comes in linking protectable features with reasonable protection. There is room for more, but here's a start.

P1. Start up just uphill from a dropoff. Note, the holds can be fragile, so trust carefully. The first solid protection is a #4 Camalot in the second crack/groove perhaps 20 feet up. Then wander up fiddling mostly wires between flakes until you are just below the East Face. Angle left on highly featured rock. Gain the East Face where the protection peters out (this section is the left version of Beserker). Pass 2 smaller trees which you can sling. Belay at a larger tree in a groove. 180', 5.7 PG-13.

P2. Continue up and slightly left intersecting the P1 belay ledge for Hell Freezes Over. 60', 5.2. Rap 95'.

You could probably traverse leftward at the top of P1 to the belay for Paradise Lost.

Location 

This is located down and right from Paradise Lost on the South Face just uphill from a dropoff.

Protection 

We used wires (especially the larger sizes) and a light set of cams (we used a yellow Alien, #2 Camalot, #4 Camalot; a #3 Camalot for P2). Longer slings are useful. 48" slings help to girth hitch the tree for a belay.


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