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By agd
Feb 3, 2013
alaska
Bjordahl wrote:
I actually would NOT recommend Riverside Quarry if you are on a road trip. The routes are fun but with significant glueing, chipping, and loose rock if you stray too far from the bolt line. It is definitely an urban crag. It is good for local rock, but not worth one of your limited road trip days. Spend an extra day at New Jack instead if you want to sport climb more.


+1 for the above. The Quarry is also known for having large, unexpected rockfall. Also, the environs are literally a junkyard -- there are dirty diapers, used tires, couches, all kinds of crap strewn around. Unless you are really into hard sport and don't care about anything else, steer clear of this area.

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By G Halsne
Feb 3, 2013
Yeah, i learnedto climb in J tree too.. Been there a few times, most notably last spring i spent a week in the park, so im not tooo worried about only 2 days.

RE black flower.. just no good.. ? Ive been to both malibu, many times and echo once... What am i missing in malibu? Or am i just used to it? lol...

Alabama Hills ?

Needles in the Sierras? Yes, been there once... Followed a few gear routes. It was on my list till my seattle partner bailed... so now i just am meeting my brother in Riverside and climbing semi locally.

- Grae

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 3, 2013
The Needles is bad suggestion. Doesn't come in until around June or so and its not that close to LA. You'll have much better odds at Tahquitz than there.

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Feb 4, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
What am i missing in malibu?

Not much, once you have been to stumbling blocks, gorgeous, getto, apes you have pretty much been there done that. That being said, it is the go to 1/2 day climbing spot.

Echo has some good climbing, but nothing on par with anything in the Owens gorge or A-hills or any of up the hwy14/395 stuff.

And Fat Dad is sort of right about the Needles, Voodoo Dome gets really really good from early March on. Only one problem... the forest service never opens up the lower road, even though it's 100% snow free... so bring a bike and be ready to ride about 10 miles.

Tons of steller spots up that a ways,if you wish to drive for about 3 to 5 hours, but that is not really LA area climbing.... more like Kernville, Ridgecrest, Kennedy Meadows, Trona, Olancha, Lone Pine, Darwin,and Bishop Metro climbing.

If any interest in that, just ask.

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 5, 2013
Guy's right about Voodoo. It's just when I think of the Needles, I think of the Needles proper, which are approached from the west. In my own mind at least I tend to classify Voodoo separately since it's got a different approach (and the road is closed until about Memorial Day or so--far longer than needed). Unless you're a fit rider and are familiar with the approach, I got to think riding in before the road is open will make for a long day.

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Feb 5, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
Dad... in the olden days... that road was only closed when it was covered in snow. Many years that was for only a few weeks!

Now the FS keeps it closed till MID MAY... by then its to hot to do those steller climbs, or to access the forks of the Kern.

Most lame ass thing the FS does.... IMHO.

And I know guys who bike in, camp, and climb.

you will not see another soul.

but I think the OP has other places in mind.

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By Rywess
Feb 5, 2013
Check out Black Mountain :) Dunno if the gate is still closed or not, but damn that place is cool

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By atp
From Clairemont Mesa, CA
Feb 5, 2013
Black Mountain
Didn't notice if someone already posted it but Holcomb Valley in Big Bear. Some fun sport climbing, you can check it out on MP.

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By UpRope
Feb 5, 2013

if you go to jtree first and never been there, you're not going to want to leave



+1

On the way out , if you have 4 wheel try Holcomb Valley.


Holcomb Valley. Free camping.
Holcomb Valley. Free camping.

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By G Halsne
Feb 6, 2013
LOL... im in seattle... an I dont want to leave JT yet ;)

But yeah, staying within a few hours of the LA area is kind a the idea... I do Have "AWD"... does that count?

Also, still waiting to hear about Alabama... Or is that not "local"

My AWD :
i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee...

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By Bryan G
From San Jose
Feb 6, 2013
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders
The Alabama Hills are more like 3 hours from LA (with no traffic). It's quite similar rock to Joshua Tree but they've grid bolted the whole place into a bunch of easy to moderate clip-ups. Additionally it's got a gorgeous backdrop of the Whitney region, and plush camping. But shit, if you're driving up there you might as well just keep on truckin to Bishop which blows away everything in SoCal.

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By G Halsne
Feb 8, 2013
OK, so time to get nitty gritty. Im looking for opinions on high quality lines, that are in the 10c/d range for warm ups and 11a-c range for destination climbs.. I would like to get a master tic list together so i can hit whats good and not wander around taste testing a bunch. I know opinion is objective, so feel free to say whats awesome and what to stay away form, in this range please.

Specifically for areas im interested in are whittled down to :

NJC
High desert ( any areas )
Echo
Malibu
j Tree ( i know... i know.. thats a can of worms, in fact, ignore this unless you have an orgasmic delicious route in mind )

I have the old Orange Socal Guide, the 2nd edition Santa monicas, and the newer J tree guides as well..

OK go! :)

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By david quatro
Feb 8, 2013
NJC
Rainbow drive (11) is great
Freakshow(12a) if you're up for it
The scene is not for sale(11a)
Gun for hire(11a)

Apple valley
World full of hate(11c/d) short, but really fun

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 9, 2013
To the OP: you would have gotten more pointed responses if you had included those specific parameters in your initial request.

I think the Left Flank and Java Wall at Echo will have alot in that range.

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By G Halsne
Feb 9, 2013
Fat dad.... I hear what your saying... But I had to get help in focusing my efforts in specific crags first... I only have so much time, and wasnt considering snow levels in my initial plans.

Thanks for the specs guys... Im excited for NJC. since it will we new for me.. I have climbed Java Wall.. 2 years ago, i climbed

Bushed Coyote 10d ( disliked, as a warm up anyway)
Espresso 11a ( liked )

Ive climbed tons at Malibu, and each time i get a little harded.. So mu list right now would be:

Vigilante 11a
Letterbox 11b
Blockbuster 11a
CigArete 11b
Delicious 10d
( never climbed at the Ghetto) So:
Skeezer Pleaser 11b
Direct pissima 11a
Johnny Cant lead 11b

I have never been to the "the wave" area, but looks like "Blast" 11a/b could be fun, but worth the hike up ?

Also, century lake canyon.. Ive been down to the close stuff like choeps and and drifter, but not much farther.. anything steller ?

THANKS!

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By David prsn
From Tustin
Feb 10, 2013
Temple crag, dark star
Pm me if your looking for a partner while your down.

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Feb 13, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
IMHO... Fat Dad has it correct regarding ECHO...You liked Expresso so.. warm up on Left Flank, and go try the other11's to 12's On Java and if you want harder walk 50 feet right to the "PINK" wall, you get hard 12... go 50 more right and you get more 11 and 12s... all bunched up. Echo is a funny place, the original climbs are the best, more have been added latley but almost all of these sort of suck... Jack and Louie have good ideas about lines and they picked the plumbs...I recomend "Death By Chocolate" it's only 10D. Have fun, Echo is really beautiful in March... plan on staying late and hiking out by headlamp.

If you wish to drive and have never been to the ORG do it. I think that the ORG is the BEST sport climbing in California....



My .02

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By Snupe
From SoCak
Feb 13, 2013
G Halsne wrote:
Fat dad.... I hear what your saying... But I had to get help in focusing my efforts in specific crags first... I only have so much time, and wasnt considering snow levels in my initial plans. Thanks for the specs guys... Im excited for NJC. since it will we new for me.. I have climbed Java Wall.. 2 years ago, i climbed Bushed Coyote 10d ( disliked, as a warm up anyway) Espresso 11a ( liked ) Ive climbed tons at Malibu, and each time i get a little harded.. So mu list right now would be: Vigilante 11a Letterbox 11b Blockbuster 11a CigArete 11b Delicious 10d ( never climbed at the Ghetto) So: Skeezer Pleaser 11b Direct pissima 11a Johnny Cant lead 11b I have never been to the "the wave" area, but looks like "Blast" 11a/b could be fun, but worth the hike up ? Also, century lake canyon.. Ive been down to the close stuff like choeps and and drifter, but not much farther.. anything steller ? THANKS!


at the Century Lake area, Rolling Blackout (10d) on the Power Wall is one of the best 10s in the canyon, and Pick Pocket (11b) is not bad. If you're just going to Malibu for a day, I wouldn't go to the dam, though.

Also, for your list, I would take CigArete off (it's not very good), and add Marauding Monkeys 11a (not in the SM guide, it's the long (~15 bolts) route to the right of Delicious (shares a start). Also add Mr. Big 10d if you haven't done it. I would not recommend making the hike up to the Wave area, it's kind of a pain in the ass and the rock up there has not been climbed as much, so it's kind of chossy (even as compared to the rest of Malibu).

For NJC, I'd include Fantasia 11a and Crucified 11c on your list.

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By Nick Barczak
Feb 13, 2013
...
I'm with Fossana. I lived in SoCal for 6 years. The only places I would make an effort to go back to are:

Tahquitz/Suicide Rock
JT
Black Mt (bouldering)

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By jellybean
Feb 14, 2013
G, hit New Jack for sure, also if its convenient the Riverside Quarry has cool routes(been there over a hundred times and have never seen significant rockfall) and Malibu is really fun. It depends on what you want out of your climbing trip. In my opinion J Tree sucks. 95% of the routes that I have done in Josh I would not care to repeat (the bouldering is pretty cool). The San Bernardino's will be cold and have some access issues. The places I mentioned are more movement oriented rather than summit oriented. The Owens would be great but skip Alabama, the Horseman's in Apple Valley is closer. If you do go to any of the places I've suggested try to snake a TR on something hard and see if you can't bring home an awesome send.

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By Greg Springer
From Minneapolis
Feb 14, 2013
Friends big puppy
I was in Santa Barbara in December for a week+ and it rained every day except 1...was disappointed because there's a lot of good bouldering around there

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Feb 14, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
Nick... FYI... The upper road to the Needles opens around Memoral Day, in late May.

But it may never open again ---- True.

Contact your congressman and demand that the historic lookout be rebuilt.... or its going to be about a 8 mile hike to the notch.

This is a REAL possibility.

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By G Halsne
Mar 4, 2013
Well ! Im here... but turns out its FOREVER. Work took a bizarre and unexpected turn for the best and i am moving back to LA! Will be working in Hermosa Beach, finding a place to live nearby, longbeach, Gardena... somewhere, not sure yet. Time to start making partners..er..friends!

:)))))

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Mar 4, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
Welcome....

Now you go to the spots and please tell us.... So Cal destinations..

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By G Halsne
Mar 4, 2013
^.... ?

FLAG


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