This route is located on the east face of the south end of North Gateway Rock. Scramble 40 feet up steps and large holds to a large ledge below an obtuse, right-facing corner with a couple pins (Snuggles). Most parties rope up here.
Snuggles: Climb the nice hand crack that arches out right towards its top past a couple pins to a large ledge with two pins. Gear from 3/4" to 2". (5.8 - 50 feet).
Fall Crack: Continue up the off-width off the left side of the ledge for about 10 feet to a piton on the right wall. (An old #4.5 Camalot might be useful here, depending on your off-width skills. I used an old #4 Camalot to protect the moves off the ledge, but it was fairly tipped out and useless). Continue with another 10 feet of wide/squeeze climbing, make an airy move out of the wideness, then continue up easier ground to a 2-pin anchor with rap rings.
This is a nice climb with good exposure and a nice belay station. Many parties also climb the left facing corner off the right side of the ledge above Snuggles (5.9+?). My length estimates are approximate, so don't assume you can use one rope and rappel from the top of Fall Crack to the anchor on Snuggles. If you do this, at least make sure you're using a 60m rope, and bring webbbing and rap rings to leave on Snuggles, which is worth top-roping. I recommend just climbing Snuggles and Fall Crack as one nice pitch, and use 2-ropes to descend. If this climb hasn't been done recently, it will be sandy, especially after some rain, but what Garden climb isn't? My FA info was taken from Bob D's guide.
Standard rack up to 5". About 4 or 5 ring angle pitons on route.
The obvious long, wide, and steep crack is Max's M...
Bill Weiss starts up Snuggles.
Workin' Snuggles last fall.
|Comments on Snuggles to Fall Crack
|By Scott Edwards|
Oct 5, 2005
In my opinion, both pitches should be done in one! The rings on the pins at the end of Snuggles pitch (at the ledge) look like they have hairline cracks in them.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 18, 2005
The left facing corner that angles to the right above Snuggles is more like a 5.9+%$@!!# which denotes the expletives you'll be using on this TERRIBLE rock (even by Garden standards). There is a person sized chunk of rock with in the middle of the route ringed by a significant crack that poses a significant risk to your belayer. Not recommended...
|By Michael Murphy|
Apr 4, 2006
I agree with AC. I climbed Peterson's Crack (The left facing corner that angles to the right above Snuggles) in the fall of '05. After many +%$@!!#, I arrived at the top exausted from skipping loose holds, loose blocks, and dirty off-widthing. The climbing sucks, and the pro is even worse. I recommend sticking with fall crack for the second pitch.
|By Chris Mack|
Sep 27, 2006
To backup what Scott said, the anchors are definitely not the best and need attention. While the pins are pretty well driven, the ring on the right pin MOST CERTAINLY has a crack in it, and it's more than "hairline." I never noticed it before, and when I saw it yesterday, my ass puckered for sure when I started my rap. The pin on the left is just as old, but the ring looks to be in a little bit better shape.
At the very least, there should probably be some webbing up there to equalize that crap, but a much better solution would be 1/2 inch bolts, or those supa sweet glue in jobs that can be found on the boot face. I think I will send an email to Stu to see what he thinks. Also, that Peterson route to the right of Fall Crack looks like CRAP! I know Mike is going to talk me into doing it one day, hopefully that will be a day on which the "rock giveth" as opposed to a day on which the "rock taketh away."
From: Denver, CO
Mar 16, 2007
Quoted as the best crack climb in the Garden from the Garden guidebook? Wow, I don't think so. Fun and enjoyable, but definitely not the best. Many loose blocks on the top of the fall crack. You can climb it in one pitch and rap it with one 60m rope, no need to bring two.
Bring a knife and extra webbing to clear out the old stuff at the top anchor. We had webbing, but forgot our knife and the webbing is starting to look a little weathered.
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jun 13, 2008
The mostly unprotected slab to the base of the route takes one sketchy thread through a handbar that looks like it would crumble if you actually fell on it. Just brush off your footholds prior to stepping on them and head up. There is a collection of boulders that has been slung to rappel down from. Kind of funky, but it holds.
Jul 12, 2009
Snuggles is the best f-ing pitch in The Garden other than The Notch.... Fall Crack is scary, good but scary, but Snuggles rocks!! Do it. And the approach is mellow, just relax and don't fall.
|By Phil Lauffen|
From: The Bubble
Jul 14, 2009
This is a super fun climb. I've done it a couple times and have found liebacking to be easier than jamming along most of the crack. Each to his own though. Today I found a nice anchor set of shiny new bolts at the end of snuggles crack. THANK YOU! I don't know if there are new bolts at the top of fall crack also, but I really appreciate the effort whoever put those in went through.
Aug 23, 2009
No, the guy who placed the new anchor bolts at the top of Snuggles did not place anything at top of fall crack. Enjoy!
|By mikemcg R50|
Oct 10, 2009
I was the one who added new anchors at the top of Snuggles, and I will be doing replacements of anchors at The Garden when ever I get free time...Fall Crack will be getting new ones soon. If you know of a route that needs new anchors or pro, let me know and I will add it to my list. Anyone who wants to go out with me is more than welcome to send me an e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org and we will have some fun making The Garden safer.... Thank you for noticing and appreciating my work. Please don't use the drilled pins on Snuggles. I don't think they are safe. Use cams and tri-cams on the route. I didn't chop the pins in fear of people (sport climbers) getting pissed off. Clip at your own risk and hope you don't fall. The route takes good gear....
|By Stewart M. Green|
Oct 28, 2009
Hi Mike, thanks for the work on the Snuggles anchors. All anchor replacement and upgrades, however, needs to be done through Bob Hostetler, the climber representative on the Colorado Springs Park and Rec board. We have an on-going approval process with the city of Colorado Springs to replace and upgrade all anchors, both protection and belay/rappel anchors. This is a managed process.
The Park and Rec doesn't want climbers just going out and replacing whatever they feel like doing. That might have worked in the past but the guidelines have become much stricter. We've been working with the city the past 5 years to develop this policy so we can continue climbing and to ensure future access. By going out and drilling, despite good intentions, could jeopardize this access.
Please contact me and I can put you in touch with Bob if you wish to replace more anchors. We have a list of anchors that need work and if you want to be involved, we welcome your work. Be advised that all hardware needs to be either painted the color of the rock or is not visible from the ground, no slings or colored slings should be used, and the use of chains is discouraged. Also all drilling and anchor work needs to be done during the week when the park isn't busy, the park and visitor center has to be advised that work is being done (so the police aren't called!), and usually someone needs to be on the sidewalk to inform visitors as well as park staff what is being done. Thanks!
From: Colorado Springs
Dec 27, 2010
Being that the last comment was over a year ago, I figured I would provide an update after getting on this last Friday. First thing... I may be a bit of a woos but the approach to the bottom of snuggles puckered my butt a bit. It was slopy sandy low 5th class and not protectable. Just take your time, make every thing count and leave your coffee on the ground. Now... Onto Snuggles. Wowee. This was a great crack climb for a beginner crack climber such as myself. The 2 pitons looked pretty bomber by Garden Standards and a few other pieces off of the standard rack made this a fun fun pitch. Someone has put in new anchors for this pitch that seemed pretty good. Fall crack... First recommendation... If you are going on to Fall crack, lead it all in one pitch or you are looking at a factor 2 right off of the anchors as you try and manage the wierd offwidth and get to the first of the two manky half way drawn up pins with virtually no other pro possibilities. My partner bailed after reaching the first pin and that left us back at the snuggles anchors. I got a wild hair and decided to lead the infamous Peterson "5.9+%$@!!#" pitch. It had a great finger crack for the first couple of placements and even one piton and then bam... Dirty grungy breakable rock that didn't hold any pro that made me feel safe. After negotiating the huge block that is still ready to fall, I was able to get a pretty good chock into the left wall behind to the left and shoved a cam deep into the dirty hole. After sliding up the dirty breakable ramp with no other pro and jamming my leg into the abyss and breaking up everything down there, I made the upper piton. Talk about a Thank you Jesus hold. Last few moves were figuring how to work my 200lb body into the offwidth at the top. I had to stay outside til I got higher and could fit my big butt and then an easy squeeze up from there. We went straight north from there and rapped down to the ramp to the east that allowed us to downclimb back to the bottom of snuggles and rapp from there to the ground. It is also possible to rig something to rap southwest and head down the finger face to the many sets of anchors there. Bring extra webbing for this one. It was nothing less than an adventure and I will not be climbing Peterson again!
|By matt bruton|
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Dec 27, 2010
It was an adventure to say the very least. And thank the bolter for those anchors they still look good. Don't think the block on P.C. will hold for many more dance parties though, so if you go up, don't disco! Use a backup on the belay.
|By Phil Lauffen|
From: The Bubble
Dec 27, 2010
Fall Crack is perfectably protectable with a wide cam. I think I used a #4.5 Camalot equivalent.
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 3, 2011
Did Snuggles to Fall Crack yesterday w/ Jim D.
I don't know what all the fuss is about???? Ain't nothing but a chicken wing and fall crack goes just fine.
I think this is one of the best climbs in The Garden.
No tourons, No toproping guides, and NO waiting to climb.
I say let the punters have Potholes, West Point, and Cowboy. I wish there were more climbs like Snuggles to Fall Crack in The Garden.
Old style Camalot 4.5 or new 5 will protect yer butt just fine.
P.S. it's not as sandy now.... Enjoy.
|By Jordan Hirro|
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Oct 15, 2012
My favorite 5.8 in The Garden! Can be done in one pitch, but I personally like 2. Lieback and stem through the first pitch with very good pro and big holds. The second pitch definitely gets interesting though... it starts as a very dirty, awkward (redundant) off-width. Clip the 3 (maybe 2? if I remember right) bolts, then dig into your trad rack. Everyone here is saying you need a 4 or a 5, but I actually did it with a 0.4 ... Not meaning to brag, I just don't want to scare away folks that don't have a 4 or 5 and think they can't do this! After the last bolt, climb a few moves and look to the left and you'll see a prime spot for a 0.4, and a 2 to back that up just above it. Be safe though and watch out for the loose boulders that are jammed just below the anchors. Have fun!
Descent: rap down with a single 60m rope.
|By John Collis|
Oct 27, 2013
I don't mean to spray, but really the key to sending fall crack is to grunt and yell as loudly as possible. The added attention from tourists will ensure the send.