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Snowy Mt

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Snowy Mt 


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Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Aug 21, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The cliff from Rt 30 at Lewey Lake. Red line is t...

Description 

South facing with little shade, but perhaps a nice breeze on an otherwise hot day. Base area is narrow and slippery, definitely not a place to bring small children or large groups. Terrific view of Indian Lake. The rock texture is what sets the routes apart here. Sample any of the short lines under the large roof to get the feel of the area. Vertabrae is a bit of an exception - it's more of a friction climb, esp. on P1.


Getting There 

Follow the DEC trail (online reports suggest the "blue blazed herd path approach" mentioned in Adirondack Rock is no longer adequately marked). You might have trouble finding the climbers' path cutting off the hiking trail; it's not as close to the summit as the book suggests. Best bet - when you get to the obvious, large clearing just off the right of the trail - the site of the observer's cabin, if I'm not mistaken - you have passed the climbers' trail by 30 seconds. It is really quite prominent, and leads through a small camping spot, complete with wood bench/table. Follow the increasingly faint path as it trends right (toward the face) AND GOES DOWNHILL for 100' or so. I didn't see any cairns along the way. It took us 2 hr to reach the face from the trailhead.


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Snowy Mt:
Buckwheat   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c A0     Sport, Aid, 2 pitches, 120'   
Vertebrae   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 240'   
Redneck on a Rope   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   
Browse More Classics in Snowy Mt

Featured Route For Snowy Mt
Buckwheat in one long pitch.  Notice all the texture on P1.  Just good fun stuff.

Buckwheat 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c A0  NY : Adirondacks : Snowy Mt
P1 is short and relatively easy, so linking together with P2 is quite straightforward. You'll get some rope drag but this can be minimized by not clipping all the A0 bolts at the overhang. A 2' sling to step in is helpful on the last bolt. Hey, if you're gonna cheat, you might as well make it easy!...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Comments on Snowy Mt Add Comment
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By John Lombardi
2 days ago
CONDITION REPORT 

Went to the Snowy mountain boulderfield today - all routes were dry!

I didn't have time to hike up to snowy mountain and check the routes but from rt 30 it looked dry. No seepage at least. May have some ice still but I wasn't 100% sure if it was ice or not since I was so far away.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 21, 2009

Mike--

I've been really interested in checking this place out. Are the routes really distinctive from one another and/or the rest of the Dacks? Or is it the setting, etc that sets this place apart from the rest of the Dacks? Thanks for posting!

By Gunkiemike
Aug 22, 2009

The setting is great. If you like Big Slide Mt, then you get the idea. OTOH if a long approach detracts from the day's enjoyment, go elsewhere. The rock is unlike anything I've seen elsewhere in the Park (except for Vertebrae, as noted). I can't speak for Redneck, since we didn't get on that route. But it's located close to the others so I expect the book authors' comments are spot on for that one as well. The "draws only" aspect and total absence of crowds have appeal as well.

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Aug 28, 2009

Chris -

Yes, the rock is unique for the park. Way more featured than anywhere else with pockets, plates, and ribs. This is the only place outside of the High Peaks with anorthosite, which tends to be more interesting than the gneiss found everywhere else. As mentioned, the setting adds to the appeal. A long approach, but that's also a good thing, keeping away the crouds and adding to the view. With respect to "draws only", don't forget the #4 Camalot if you want to do Redneck, the undeniable classic.

By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Sep 1, 2009

Just went down there on 8/31/09. As for the approach, if you get to the large open platform clearing, you've missed the climber's trail by several minutes. The view from these climbs might be one of the best in the entire Northeast (maybe even more dramatic than Big Slide). We were able to do all of the climbs on the face. Buckwheat can easily be done in one pitch with some long slings and unclipping some draws on the bolt ladder. If you only do one route, you MUST do Redneck on a Rope. It is phenomenal. A # 4 does protect the tricky move getting out of the OW but is too small for most of the crack. We moved L to R across the cliff, finishing with Vertebrae. 1st pitch of this climb will be heady if you are not really comfortable on slab, with injury potential if you fall due to the low angle (not death, but this would not be a good place to sprain an ankle). Second pitch was soaked and covered in thick moss (unlike the rest of the climbs) - would be excellent if dry and clean. We had to dig the bolt hangers out of the wet moss, but we topped out at the fire tower with our packs on and then just hiked down the DEC trail back to the road. Great day.

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Sep 2, 2009

Nick - This is the second time today that I've heard criticism of the protection ratings in the Adirondack guidebook. However, we have not received any suggestions for changes in this area. Please -- if you find a protection rating you feel is inaccurate, let us know so we can fix them...especially if you think they are dangerous!

-Jim

jim@summsoft.com

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Sep 2, 2009

Nick,

Other than Snowy Mt., what area's gear ratings are off, in your opinion? I would like to know, as well, so that I/we can have more efficient conversations with you re: specific routes, and make adjustments to the routes on the MP data base. Thanks!

By Mike Caruso
Dec 7, 2010

In August 2006, the cairns were overgrown with vegetation. When I finally located the path and stepped off it heading for the cliff I stayed high and right until I had to move left and then the roped traverse came into sight as I was forced to work my way down. The sloping belay ledge was three feet deep in grass and slippery. Snowy is definitely worth the trip, but get an early start. The rock reminds me of Red Rock Canyon, including chicken-heads. I am posting some pix from that 2006 foray. My non-climbing girlfriend of the time was kind enough to belay me.

Asteroid
Asteroid

In The Buff and Waterstreak
In The Buff and Waterstreak


Wallface from Snowy
Wallface from Snowy


Buckwheat
Buckwheat


The trail is just a little steep
The trail is just a little steep

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Oct 31, 2011

i wasnt so psyched when my friends told me about the approach but regardless i tagged along and well, im glad i did. The climbing is spectacular knobby face climbing with some fun whaco's here and there. favorite line was redneck on a rope, i would actually suggest to bring 2 large peaces (a 4 and 5 would e perfect) for the beginning of redneck on a rope because the offwith would be a really unpleasant fall. but worth the day trip, also hit up the snowy boulders while you are in town.