Snowy Mt 

Mike--

I've been really interested in checking this place out. Are the routes really distinctive from one another and/or the rest of the Dacks? Or is it the setting, etc that sets this place apart from the rest of the Dacks? Thanks for posting!

The setting is great. If you like Big Slide Mt, then you get the idea. OTOH if a long approach detracts from the day's enjoyment, go elsewhere. The rock is unlike anything I've seen elsewhere in the Park (except for Vertebrae, as noted). I can't speak for Redneck, since we didn't get on that route. But it's located close to the others so I expect the book authors' comments are spot on for that one as well. The "draws only" aspect and total absence of crowds have appeal as well.

Chris -

Yes, the rock is unique for the park. Way more featured than anywhere else with pockets, plates, and ribs. This is the only place outside of the High Peaks with anorthosite, which tends to be more interesting than the gneiss found everywhere else. As mentioned, the setting adds to the appeal. A long approach, but that's also a good thing, keeping away the crouds and adding to the view. With respect to "draws only", don't forget the #4 Camalot if you want to do Redneck, the undeniable classic.

Just went down there on 8/31/09. As for the approach, if you get to the large open platform clearing, you've missed the climber's trail by several minutes. The view from these climbs might be the best in the entire Northeast (maybe even more dramatic than Big Slide). We were able to do all of the climbs on the face. Buckwheat can easily be done in one pitch with some long slings and unclipping some draws on the bolt ladder. If you only do one route, you MUST do Redneck on a Rope. It is phenomenal, one of the best I have done anywhere. A # 4 does protect the tricky move getting out of the OW but is too small for most of the crack. We moved L to R across the cliff, finishing with Vertebrae. 1st pitch will be heady if you are not really comfortable on slab, with injury potential if you fall due to the low angle (not death, but this would not be a good place to sprain an ankle - this further supports my belief that many of the gear ratings in the new book are incorrect and sometimes dangerous with all due respect to the authors). Second pitch was soaked and covered in thick moss (unlike the rest of the climbs) - would be excellent if dry and clean. We had to dig the bolt hangers out of the wet moss, but we topped out at the fire tower with our packs on and then just hiked down the DEC trail back to the road. Great day.

Nick - This is the second time today that I've heard criticism of the protection ratings in the Adirondack guidebook. However, we have not received any suggestions for changes in this area. Please -- if you find a protection rating you feel is inaccurate, let us know so we can fix them...especially if you think they are dangerous!

-Jim

jim@summsoft.com

Nick,

Other than Snowy Mt., what area's gear ratings are off, in your opinion? I would like to know, as well, so that I/we can have more efficient conversations with you re: specific routes, and make adjustments to the routes on the MP data base. Thanks!

In August 2006, the cairns were overgrown with vegetation. When I finally located the path and stepped off it heading for the cliff I stayed high and right until I had to move left and then the roped traverse came into sight as I was forced to work my way down. The sloping belay ledge was three feet deep in grass and slippery. Snowy is definitely worth the trip, but get an early start. The rock reminds me of Red Rock Canyon, including chicken-heads. I am posting some pix from that 2006 foray. My non-climbing girlfriend of the time was kind enough to belay me.

Asteroid Submitted By: Mike Caruso on Dec 7, 2010

In The Buff and Waterstreak Submitted By: Mike Caruso on Dec 7, 2010

Wallface from Snowy Submitted By: Mike Caruso on Dec 7, 2010

Buckwheat Submitted By: Mike Caruso on Dec 7, 2010

The trail is just a little steep Submitted By: Mike Caruso on Dec 7, 2010

i wasnt so psyched when my friends told me about the approach but regardless i tagged along and well, im glad i did. The climbing is spectacular knobby face climbing with some fun whaco's here and there. favorite line was redneck on a rope, i would actually suggest to bring 2 large peaces (a 4 and 5 would e perfect) for the beginning of redneck on a rope because the offwith would be a really unpleasant fall. but worth the day trip, also hit up the snowy boulders while you are in town.