South facing with little shade, but perhaps a nice breeze on an otherwise hot day. Base area is narrow and slippery, definitely not a place to bring small children or large groups. Terrific view of Indian Lake. The rock texture is what sets the routes apart here. Sample any of the short lines under the large roof to get the feel of the area. Vertabrae is a bit of an exception - it's more of a friction climb, esp. on P1.
Follow the DEC trail (online reports suggest the "blue blazed herd path approach" mentioned in Adirondack Rock is no longer adequately marked). You might have trouble finding the climbers' path cutting off the hiking trail; it's not as close to the summit as the book suggests. Best bet - when you get to the obvious, large clearing just off the right of the trail - the site of the observer's cabin, if I'm not mistaken - you have passed the climbers' trail by 30 seconds. It is really quite prominent, and leads through a small camping spot, complete with wood bench/table. Follow the increasingly faint path as it trends right (toward the face) AND GOES DOWNHILL for 100' or so. I didn't see any cairns along the way. It took us 2 hr to reach the face from the trailhead.
7 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Snowy Mt
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Snowy Mt:
In The Buff 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Buckwheat 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A0 Sport, Aid, 2 pitches, 120'
Vertebrae 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 240'
Featured Route For Snowy Mt
Redneck on a Rope 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b NY
: Snowy Mt
Classic, secure, and elegant. These are all words that would aptly describe the climbing on this great line. A destination route to be sure.Begin up the left side of the pillar which steepens into a moderate offwidth section (5.8, 4-5" piece). Surmount the pillar then follow the bolt line up and left through the steep headwall on good edges/dishes past a short thin section (crux) More moderate terrain leads to a final interesting move before the belay chains....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: The cliff from Rt 30 at Lewey Lake. Red line is t...
BETA PHOTO: Handy bong style piton can be used to anchor a bel...
|By John Lombardi|
Apr 20, 2014
Went to the Snowy mountain boulderfield today - all routes were dry!
I didn't have time to hike up to snowy mountain and check the routes but from rt 30 it looked dry. No seepage at least. May have some ice still but I wasn't 100% sure if it was ice or not since I was so far away.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 21, 2009
I've been really interested in checking this place out. Are the routes really distinctive from one another and/or the rest of the Dacks? Or is it the setting, etc that sets this place apart from the rest of the Dacks? Thanks for posting!
Aug 22, 2009
The setting is great. If you like Big Slide Mt, then you get the idea. OTOH if a long approach detracts from the day's enjoyment, go elsewhere. The rock is unlike anything I've seen elsewhere in the Park (except for Vertebrae, as noted). I can't speak for Redneck, since we didn't get on that route. But it's located close to the others so I expect the book authors' comments are spot on for that one as well. The "draws only" aspect and total absence of crowds have appeal as well.
|By Jim Lawyer|
Aug 28, 2009
Yes, the rock is unique for the park. Way more featured than anywhere else with pockets, plates, and ribs. This is the only place outside of the High Peaks with anorthosite, which tends to be more interesting than the gneiss found everywhere else. As mentioned, the setting adds to the appeal. A long approach, but that's also a good thing, keeping away the crouds and adding to the view. With respect to "draws only", don't forget the #4 Camalot if you want to do Redneck, the undeniable classic.
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Essex, NY
Sep 1, 2009
Just went down there on 8/31/09. As for the approach, if you get to the large open platform clearing, you've missed the climber's trail by several minutes. The view from these climbs might be one of the best in the entire Northeast (maybe even more dramatic than Big Slide). We were able to do all of the climbs on the face. Buckwheat can easily be done in one pitch with some long slings and unclipping some draws on the bolt ladder. If you only do one route, you MUST do Redneck on a Rope. It is phenomenal. A # 4 does protect the tricky move getting out of the OW but is too small for most of the crack. We moved L to R across the cliff, finishing with Vertebrae. 1st pitch of this climb will be heady if you are not really comfortable on slab, with injury potential if you fall due to the low angle (not death, but this would not be a good place to sprain an ankle). Second pitch was soaked and covered in thick moss (unlike the rest of the climbs) - would be excellent if dry and clean. We had to dig the bolt hangers out of the wet moss, but we topped out at the fire tower with our packs on and then just hiked down the DEC trail back to the road. Great day.
|By Jim Lawyer|
Sep 2, 2009
Nick - This is the second time today that I've heard criticism of the protection ratings in the Adirondack guidebook. However, we have not received any suggestions for changes in this area. Please -- if you find a protection rating you feel is inaccurate, let us know so we can fix them...especially if you think they are dangerous!
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Sep 2, 2009
Other than Snowy Mt., what area's gear ratings are off, in your opinion? I would like to know, as well, so that I/we can have more efficient conversations with you re: specific routes, and make adjustments to the routes on the MP data base. Thanks!
|By Jaysen Henderson|
From: White Plains, New York
Oct 31, 2011
i wasnt so psyched when my friends told me about the approach but regardless i tagged along and well, im glad i did. The climbing is spectacular knobby face climbing with some fun whaco's here and there. favorite line was redneck on a rope, i would actually suggest to bring 2 large peaces (a 4 and 5 would e perfect) for the beginning of redneck on a rope because the offwith would be a really unpleasant fall. but worth the day trip, also hit up the snowy boulders while you are in town.
From: Plymouth, NH
May 26, 2014
Did this the other day, and like everyone else has said, this approach is a little brutal. Just a heads up, the Beta says the climbers trail is on the right (not to sure where i read this) of the trail but this is incorrect as it kinda mosey's off to the left at what is basically the summit. Views were incredible, just wish it was drier. The rock itself is rad. It looks slabby as hell, but holds bomber pockets and all sorts of treats. Awesome, awesome climbing