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Right of the Direct North Face is a prominent red chimney system on Peak 12,579. Follow the chimney for up to 4-5 pitches. Descend by rapping the route or by walk off.
The route is about 4 1/4 miles up FR 585 near the campground.
A selection of screws.
Right variation of the pitch above "crux" pitch.
|By Todd R|
Nov 19, 2008
Choose your day wisely for this one (and all in the Silverton area). A buddy and I went to climb it on November 7th a few years back, on a day with 6" of new snow. We were about 15 feet from becoming statistics when the sun warmed the E-facing aspect of the somewhat hidden bowl 1500' above us, and something began to move. A big slide left a debris pile 100m long by 12 feet deep, filling in the gully below the route. We decided to drink coffee instead that day....
|By Jamie Jones|
Nov 21, 2008
The San Juan guides are saying this stuff is in, but they are not saying that it is thin and wet.
Record highs for the area for weeks. I've watched several climbs fall out everyday when hit with the sun. Is it worth a 6 hour drive, not yet.
Nov 20, 2010
This route is great! It is equipped for rappelling with some decent piton anchors and slings. It seems a better option than a bushwack. You may have to do a V-thread for the mini first pitch. Enjoy!
|By Princess Mia|
Nov 16, 2013
I just did this route two days ago. Absolutely excellent!!!! Very thin in places with little to no pro. Overall the climbing is max WI 4 but with a + for spice.
Three easy raps with one 60 meter rope. The first is off a tree and just gets you down (i.e. you need a true 60), the next two raps are both off a stopper/knotted sling combo.