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The route name comes from the FFA. I topped out the route in a late summer, sudden, snow squall. This route ascends a steep pink face with a splitter crack on excellent stone.
The route starts by scrambling up below a V-shape roof, an optional nut where the roof meets the sloped ledge protects the moves to the first bolt. Clip the bolt and pull yourself onto the sloped ledge to the right. Clip the next bolt and pull up to a good stance just above the bolt. There are optional micro cam placements in the diagonal seam to protect the next easy moves to attain the crack splitting the face above. Climb the crack to just below its end and pull up and right onto a large, angling ledge. Climb up and left on the ledge until you can reach a bolt at the lip of the roof. Clip the bolt and crank up on positive holds. A 2 inch cam placement in a horizontal out right protects the next moves onto the ledge above. From the ledge, climb the slab just right of the next two bolts to another ledge and a two bolt anchor.
This is on the West side of the wall, first route encountered. Look for 2 bolts and the crack above.
5 bolts and pro to 2.5 inches.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
This is a classy route with several cruxes and a wide variety of climbing. Great find! I think it would be much improved with one more bolt, protecting the moves between the second bolt and the good gear in horizontals about 15 feet higher. Yes, you should be able to place gear off to the right above the second bolt, but it's fiddly and the rock seems a little suspect. With three bolts to start the climb, the route would be perfectly protected all the way up. Beta alert: I placed a yellow C3 after pulling the first roof: The placement is right in front of your face, right when you really want it.