Type: Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ernie Kuncl and John Deeming, 1965
Page Views: 5,865 total · 27/month
Shared By: Chris Sheridan on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
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Description Suggest change

A fun long route with a great setting. The climbing is predominantly on snow with a few mixed pitches to gain the ramp. Many possible variations exist as well as the possibility of combining this route with others such as the West Gully of Black Lake.

Location Suggest change

Start in the middle of the concave east face of McHenry's. Climb up a few pitches to gain an left leaning ramp, then climb this to the summit ridge.

Protection Suggest change

A light mixed rack.

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Photos

Eric leading our third pitch of the route with the help of some frozen turf. Taken 3/5/06.
Eric leading our third pitch of the route with…
 21
A mixed pitch leading up to the namesake snow bench. This pitch is not usually part of the route and lies to the right of the route Right Gully, but it looked fun, so we gave it a go. Taken on 3/4/06.
A mixed pitch leading up to the namesake snow b…
 10
Eric dodging the cornice as he tops out onto the summit ridge. Taken 3/5/06.
Eric dodging the cornice as he tops out onto th…
 0
Eric at our bivi two pitches up the Snow Bench. The route did not really need to be done in two days, be we enjoyed the opportunity to spend a night in such a great place. Taken 3/5/06.
Eric at our bivi two pitches up the Snow Bench.…
 0
The east face of McHenry's Peak from the top of the West Gully of Black Lake. The Snow Bench is the left leaning ramp of snow right above Eric's head. Taken on 3/4/06.
The east face of McHenry's Peak from the top of…
 0
The first view of McHenry's Peak from the approach down Glacier Gorge. Taken on 3/4/06.
The first view of McHenry's Peak from the appro…
 0

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