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Routes in Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) - mixed, couloirs
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(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T WI4 M5 |
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Bad Finger Couloir, The Steep Snow |
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Bib (1st Apron), The T M3- Steep Snow |
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Black and White T WI4-5 M5-6 |
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Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River WI4- M4+ |
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Crystal Couloir Steep Snow |
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Diamond Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow |
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Double Dragon (Left) T M2 Mod. Snow |
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Double Dragon (right side) WI3 M3 Mod. Snow |
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Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M3 Steep Snow |
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Ghost, The T WI6 M10 R |
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Goldfinger Couloir Steep Snow PG13 |
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Iration T WI3+ M3-4 |
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Lazy Is As Lazy Does T M5 |
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Mount Evans Micro Goulotte AI4 M3 |
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North Face Crag WI2-3 M3-4 Steep Snow PG13 |
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North Face Snowfield Mod. Snow |
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Northwest Couloir T WI2 |
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Road Less Warren WI4-5 M5 |
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Road, The WI3 M4 |
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Shooting Star T WI7 M9 |
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Silhouette T WI6+ M9 R |
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Snave Direct, The T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow |
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Snave, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow |
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Snorkmaiden's Surprise WI3 M4 Mod. Snow |
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Sunrise Couloir T Mod. Snow |
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Telepherique M1-2 Steep Snow |
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Tike's Trike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4 M5+ A3 R |
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| Type: | Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m) |
| FA: | Perhaps Norie Kizaki & Dave Wolf - May 28, 2011 |
| Page Views: | 3,015 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | DW. on May 30, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Road to 13,000 feet + 20 minute downhill approach + downhill return to car = Off-the-couch alpinism.
From the base, zig-zag through snow interspersed with rock for about 100 feet until the terrain steepens at the start of the gully system proper.
Ascend a short chimney in the right-facing wall to enter the gully, then climb mixed terrain up to a perched block where the gully narrows to a chimney. Tunnel under the block or (better) traverse left and access steep snow under the prominent, right-facing fin. Follow the snow to a belay stance below a beautiful ice smear -- the Snorkmaiden's Surprise!
Tiptoe up the delicate WI3 ice smear for 10 meters and exit onto moderate snow to join the upper gully. Follow the gully to the top encountering another couple of fun mixed bits.
From the base, zig-zag through snow interspersed with rock for about 100 feet until the terrain steepens at the start of the gully system proper.
Ascend a short chimney in the right-facing wall to enter the gully, then climb mixed terrain up to a perched block where the gully narrows to a chimney. Tunnel under the block or (better) traverse left and access steep snow under the prominent, right-facing fin. Follow the snow to a belay stance below a beautiful ice smear -- the Snorkmaiden's Surprise!
Tiptoe up the delicate WI3 ice smear for 10 meters and exit onto moderate snow to join the upper gully. Follow the gully to the top encountering another couple of fun mixed bits.
Location
Park at Summit Lake, take the broad trail towards the notch-facing the Tan Buttresses, drop down and left into the cirque. Head down to below the first buttress on the left. You will see a number of gullies heading towards the ridge. Snorkmaiden's Surprise climbs the rightmost gully, one right of Mt. Evans Micro Goulotte, which features a prominent, right-facing fin that forms the upper gully and hides the Snorkmaiden's Surprise. After two pitches, SS and MEMG merge into a moderate snow gully with fun mixed bits to the ridgeline.
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