WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
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|Type: ||Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 900 feet|
|Consensus: ||WI3 M4 [details]|
|FA: ||Perhaps Norie Kizaki & Dave Wolf - May 28, 2011|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||DW. on May 30, 2011|
Ice smear to upper gully -- the Snorkmaiden's Surp...
Road to 13,000 feet + 20 minute downhill approach + downhill return to car = Off-the-couch alpinism.
From the base, zig-zag through snow interspersed with rock for about 100 feet until the terrain steepens at the start of the gully system proper.
Ascend a short chimney in the right-facing wall to enter the gully, then climb mixed terrain up to a perched block where the gully narrows to a chimney. Tunnel under the block or (better) traverse left and access steep snow under the prominent, right-facing fin. Follow the snow to a belay stance below a beautiful ice smear -- the Snorkmaiden's Surprise!
Tiptoe up the delicate WI3 ice smear for 10 meters and exit onto moderate snow to join the upper gully. Follow the gully to the top encountering another couple of fun mixed bits.
Park at Summit Lake, take the broad trail towards the notch-facing the Tan Buttresses, drop down and left into the cirque. Head down to below the first buttress on the left. You will see a number of gullies heading towards the ridge. Snorkmaiden's Surprise climbs the rightmost gully, one right of Mt. Evans Micro Goulotte, which features a prominent, right-facing fin that forms the upper gully and hides the Snorkmaiden's Surprise. After two pitches, SS and MEMG merge into a moderate snow gully with fun mixed bits to the ridgeline.
Rock gear, emphasis on small cams and nuts. Knifeblade helpful. A stubby?
Exiting mixed terrain to access snow beneath the r...
Looking down initial ice smear section.
Climbing the upper gully towards the ridge.
A summer view of Snorkmaiden's Surprise and MEMG. ...
BETA PHOTO: MEMG on the left and SMS on the right.
The little mixed bits go at about M1, there is a M...
This is a Snorkmaiden? Nice name!