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 ADVANCED
Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T 
Bad Finger Couloir, The 
Bib (1st Apron), The T 
Black and White T 
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River 
Crystal Couloir 
Diamond Couloir 
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 
Ghost, The T 
Goldfinger Couloir 
Iration T 
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T 
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte 
North Face Crag 
North Face Snowfield 
Northwest Couloir T 
Road Less Warren 
Road, The 
Shooting Star T 
Silhouette T 
Snave, The 
Snorkmaiden's Surprise 
Sunrise Couloir T 
Telepherique 
Tike's Trike T 
Unsorted Routes:

Snorkmaiden's Surprise 

WI3 M4 Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 900'
Consensus: WI3 M2- [details]
FA: Perhaps Norie Kizaki & Dave Wolf - May 28, 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,227
Submitted By: DW. on May 30, 2011

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The little mixed bits go at about M1, there is a M...

Description 

Road to 13,000 feet + 20 minute downhill approach + downhill return to car = Off-the-couch alpinism.

From the base, zig-zag through snow interspersed with rock for about 100 feet until the terrain steepens at the start of the gully system proper.

Ascend a short chimney in the right-facing wall to enter the gully, then climb mixed terrain up to a perched block where the gully narrows to a chimney. Tunnel under the block or (better) traverse left and access steep snow under the prominent, right-facing fin. Follow the snow to a belay stance below a beautiful ice smear -- the Snorkmaiden's Surprise!

Tiptoe up the delicate WI3 ice smear for 10 meters and exit onto moderate snow to join the upper gully. Follow the gully to the top encountering another couple of fun mixed bits.

Location 

Park at Summit Lake, take the broad trail towards the notch-facing the Tan Buttresses, drop down and left into the cirque. Head down to below the first buttress on the left. You will see a number of gullies heading towards the ridge. Snorkmaiden's Surprise climbs the rightmost gully, one right of Mt. Evans Micro Goulotte, which features a prominent, right-facing fin that forms the upper gully and hides the Snorkmaiden's Surprise. After two pitches, SS and MEMG merge into a moderate snow gully with fun mixed bits to the ridgeline.

Protection 

Rock gear, emphasis on small cams and nuts. Knifeblade helpful. A stubby?


Photos of Snorkmaiden's Surprise Slideshow Add Photo
A summer view of Snorkmaiden's Surprise and MEMG. The black arrow points to the MEMG gully while the Blue one points to Snorkmaiden's Surprise.
A summer view of Snorkmaiden's Surprise and MEMG. ...
Exiting mixed terrain to access snow beneath the right-facing fin.
Exiting mixed terrain to access snow beneath the r...
Ice smear to upper gully -- the Snorkmaiden's Surprise!
Ice smear to upper gully -- the Snorkmaiden's Surp...
Looking down initial ice smear section.
Looking down initial ice smear section.
MEMG on the left and SMS on the right.
BETA PHOTO: MEMG on the left and SMS on the right.
Climbing the upper gully towards the ridge.
Climbing the upper gully towards the ridge.
This is a Snorkmaiden? Nice name!
This is a Snorkmaiden? Nice name!

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