|Twin Cracks Area
A fun and interesting face climb. There used to be an anchor but often the hangers are missing so you may need to belay on top with some gear and walk off.
the only bolted route between Ride'em and Easy Off.
|By Chris H|
From: Duvall, WA
Aug 10, 2007
I found it kind of desperate at the chains
|By Sol Wertkin|
Nov 17, 2008
New anchor in place as of 11/17/08, one of the harder face routes at the sunshine wall.
|By G Halsne|
Apr 11, 2012
Interestingly, this climb was previously rated 11b back when it was bolted in the late 90s. I would agree, some desperate moves at the end, leaves you either going really far right, or through the blank face. There are now a set of lower chains at the top. ( the newer FC book talks about their poor placement)
Good climb tho! Def a good gateway into 11s
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 14, 2012
I climbed past the first set of chains thinking there would be another set at the top (as stated in the guide book). Unfortunately, there was nothing up there but choss and broken dreams. It would be awesome if someone with the tools could chop the bolts above the anchors ... it gives the impression there's more to the climb when there isn't. Nice climb though!
Apr 28, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Really fantastic climb. Great position that moves around the arete, a solid no-hands rest ledge above the bulge, and slowly gets more difficult moving towards the last few bolts.
The guidebook says the anchors on top were stolen some years ago, and the new set of anchor bolts are awkwardly placed about 18" above the second to last bolt. That means there is one more bolt above the current set of anchors, and then nothing to clip if you top out. The top out is good, though. I suggest topping out, pulling up or dropping the rope, and then walking off to the right.