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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Snooky's Return 
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Snooky's Return 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy and Dave Craft, 1958
Page Views: 3,767
Submitted By: JSH on Sep 2, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (81)
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Halfway up the first pitch.
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  • Description 

    Snooky's is a lovely face climb up the obvious vertical thin seam and crack between Beginner's Delight and Minty. The good news is that the climbing is continuous and fun. The bad news is that it's directly in the rappel line for both Beginner's Delight and Minty - it's not uncommon for newer parties, with less experience in rappelling and/or etiquette, to send ropes and pebbles down without warning. Or to insist/assume that you will wait to finish your lead until all four of them have passed. But I digress ...

    The less-climbed second pitch goes up a shallow left-facing corner above the belay bolts to a rooflet, under which you traverse left. Up a steep face with some reachy moves, then up and right following the path of least resistance to the GT ledge.

    The quite-less-climbed third pitch, while short, is fun and exciting: on the GT ledge, walk left to the base of a left-facing corner. Climb up the corner underneath the roof, and escape right, continuing on to the cliff top.


    Location 

    Descent: There are bolts and rap chains on top of P1 (one 60m; please be considerate, and refrain from gang-roping P1!). Tree rappels from the tops of P2 (two 60m to the ground) and P3.


    Protection 

    P1: Mostly smaller nuts and/or cams. Consider zipper potential, and possible groundfall potential from the low crux (a #3 BD stopper works well).

    P2 and P3: standard rack.



    Photos of Snooky's Return Slideshow Add Photo
    Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 moves are to the right of the crack)
    BETA PHOTO: Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
    Into the crux
    Into the crux
    Comments on Snooky's Return Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tim Schafstall
    From: Newark, DE
    Apr 2, 2008

    Don't cheat yourself on this climb by rapping after P1. Although not done as often (and even less now that there bolts atop P1), P2 and P3 are good fun.

    By Spiro
    May 10, 2008
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

    great climb, second pitch wandered alittle, be aware of rope drag.

    By GMBurns
    Sep 4, 2008
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

    I thought P2 was more 5.7, but it was still just as fun as P1. P3 is a one-move wonder (typical Gunks hand traverse under a roof), that may be worth doing if that's your thing. The rest of P3 is bland.

    By J Antin
    From: Denver, CO
    Sep 1, 2009
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

    I agree; I definitely think P1 offered more challenging climbing and gear placement than P2, but the entire route is worth doing!

    By David Stowe
    Sep 2, 2009

    I have always found pitch one to be a fun very straight forward climb with easy climbing and gear. I always find pitch 2 more involved and more challenging. I always do pitch one with just nuts as it is good practice.

    By doligo
    Jun 28, 2010

    There are no longer rap rings above Snooky's on GTL or on top. Rappel either from the top of Beginners Delight or walk to Madame G's chains.

    By Steve Moulding
    From: New York
    Jun 7, 2012
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

    Nice climb, no problems. Seemed more like 5.7+. Gets very steep before the GT ledge but the holds are good.