|f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Snooky's is a lovely face climb up the obvious vertical thin seam and crack between Beginner's Delight and Minty. The good news is that the climbing is continuous and fun. The bad news is that it's directly in the rappel line for both Beginner's Delight and Minty - it's not uncommon for newer parties, with less experience in rappelling and/or etiquette, to send ropes and pebbles down without warning. Or to insist/assume that you will wait to finish your lead until all four of them have passed. But I digress ...
The less-climbed second pitch goes up a shallow left-facing corner above the belay bolts to a rooflet, under which you traverse left. Up a steep face with some reachy moves, then up and right following the path of least resistance to the GT ledge.
The quite-less-climbed third pitch, while short, is fun and exciting: on the GT ledge, walk left to the base of a left-facing corner. Climb up the corner underneath the roof, and escape right, continuing on to the cliff top.
Descent: There are bolts and rap chains on top of P1 (one 60m; please be considerate, and refrain from gang-roping P1!). Tree rappels from the tops of P2 (two 60m to the ground) and P3.
P1: Mostly smaller nuts and/or cams. Consider zipper potential, and possible groundfall potential from the low crux (a #3 BD stopper works well).
P2 and P3: standard rack.
Into the crux
BETA PHOTO: Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
BETA PHOTO: nice seam for micronuts
|By Tim Schafstall|
From: Newark, DE
Apr 2, 2008
Don't cheat yourself on this climb by rapping after P1. Although not done as often (and even less now that there bolts atop P1), P2 and P3 are good fun.
May 10, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
great climb, second pitch wandered alittle, be aware of rope drag.
Sep 4, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I thought P2 was more 5.7, but it was still just as fun as P1. P3 is a one-move wonder (typical Gunks hand traverse under a roof), that may be worth doing if that's your thing. The rest of P3 is bland.
|By J Antin|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
I agree; I definitely think P1 offered more challenging climbing and gear placement than P2, but the entire route is worth doing!
|By David Stowe|
Sep 2, 2009
I have always found pitch one to be a fun very straight forward climb with easy climbing and gear. I always find pitch 2 more involved and more challenging. I always do pitch one with just nuts as it is good practice.
Jun 28, 2010
There are no longer rap rings above Snooky's on GTL or on top. Rappel either from the top of Beginners Delight or walk to Madame G's chains.
|By Steve Moulding|
From: New York
Jun 7, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nice climb, no problems. Seemed more like 5.7+. Gets very steep before the GT ledge but the holds are good.
May 28, 2014
first pitch is sweet, sustained and PG
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 10, 2014
P1 is a fun climb, the crack eats nuts. P2 is thoughtful and I felt a bit reachy (until you find the hidden hand). P3 was just easy peasy fun. ONce at the top, to the climber's left is a tree with rings slings. Two 60's will get you to a ledge with simple and easy walkoff. I did not find P1 PG. I was able to put three small nuts in through the crux.