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Routes in Feldschijen
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Sännetuntschi T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West ridge T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | K Giger, R Jäggi |
| Page Views: | 1,744 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Winter on Jul 30, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
Description
Ignoring the intro pitch to access the headwall, an extraordinary, steep alpine route from start to finish, linking a series of stellar and varied cracks in a very logical line.
Never a dull moment. Perfect rock from start to finish.
Grades go at 4c, 6c+, 6b+, 6a+, 6b, 6a+, 5b, 6b, 5c - although the pure crack pitches (pitches 2, 3 and 8) will probably seem soft for those who are proficient in jamming.
For a complete topo, refer to the filidor guidebook "Schweiz Extrem Ost".
Edit: as of August 28, 2021 this route has been extended by 4 pitches to reach the summit and join with the west ridge, allowing a walkoff: https://www.filidor.ch/download/pictures/63/q070orf7s4uifynnru77yqyo1ohv7l/saennetuntschi.pdf.. The rack required for the extension is cams 0.2-4, doubles from 2-3.
Location
There's nothing marking the start, but look for a pronounced recess / chimney feature. As of summer 2014 there was one colorful sling near the end of the chimney where the terrain begins to flatten out into a plateau underneath the headwall.
Descent is by abseil.
Protection
Complementary gear placements abound. Guidebook recommends cams 1-4 double and a set of rocks. Unless you are cool to run it out a bit or backclean, it is particularly helpful to have several #2s.
Furthermore, we were not unhappy to have had a #5 to bury in the offwidth section of the crux pitch.
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