A true Smith classic, really solid old school 5.9, a bit of rotten rock, small runouts and a little bit of aid. There are two differnt options for pitch 1.
P1a - 5.6 - Climb short ramp left ramp to a old bolt belay.
P1b - 5.8 - Climb a sport pitch that starts at the same place, follow 7 or 8 clips to a two bolt belay.
P2 - 5.7R - From either belay head up and right and enter the chimney, trash up this rotten delight plugging cams where possible. End at a large belay ledge with two bolts.
P3 - 5.6 C1 - From the belay follow the bolt ladder to the left some new bolts and some old bolts to and akward exit move into some chossy stone. Head up to a belay ledge with two bolts.
P4 - 5.7 - Power over the buldge and follow the mostly solid ramp to an akward belay beneath the P5 roof. Belay from 2 to 3 inch cams.
P5 - 5.9 - Head up and into mostly solid rock crank the roof and head up and left into the splitter 5.9 diheadral. Power up, but tread lightly as there was a pigeon on her eggs in the crack right near the crux. There is one fixed cam on this pitch. Belay atop from gear or slung blocks.
P6 - 4th - You may want to stay roped up for this as there is some rotten rock. Head up and clip and old 1/4 with long slings then down climb into the gully. From there it is a pretty easy scramble out.
The route begins to then left of white satin following the obvious left trending system to the top. Starts at a juniper.
Descent: Walk off
double cams to #3
set of nuts
|By Lady Tapas|
From: Portland, OR
Sep 11, 2013
This is snibble tower and according to the guide book its a 5.10a A1 R. It was a fun climb but lots of sketchy rock. Perfect shade from noon on!
|By Derrick Peppers|
Oct 31, 2013
what is sniffle tower? also, the 10a first pitch is pretty acurrate to other 10as in the park.
|By David Wade|
Jan 7, 2014
One of the "old" bolts on the aid traverse popped off on December 24. This section is now a little harder than A0. Could probably be freed in the 11s, and could probably be aided by someone comfortable/skilled with shaky aid.