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Snibble Tower 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1 [details]
FA: 1969 - John Marshall & John Haek
Page Views: 902
Submitted By: corvegas on Feb 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A true Smith classic, really solid old school 5.9, a bit of rotten rock, small runouts and a little bit of aid. There are two differnt options for pitch 1.

P1a - 5.6 - Climb short ramp left ramp to a old bolt belay.

P1b - 5.8 - Climb a sport pitch that starts at the same place, follow 7 or 8 clips to a two bolt belay.

P2 - 5.7R - From either belay head up and right and enter the chimney, trash up this rotten delight plugging cams where possible. End at a large belay ledge with two bolts.

P3 - 5.6 C1 - From the belay follow the bolt ladder to the left some new bolts and some old bolts to and akward exit move into some chossy stone. Head up to a belay ledge with two bolts.

P4 - 5.7 - Power over the buldge and follow the mostly solid ramp to an akward belay beneath the P5 roof. Belay from 2 to 3 inch cams.

P5 - 5.9 - Head up and into mostly solid rock crank the roof and head up and left into the splitter 5.9 diheadral. Power up, but tread lightly as there was a pigeon on her eggs in the crack right near the crux. There is one fixed cam on this pitch. Belay atop from gear or slung blocks.

P6 - 4th - You may want to stay roped up for this as there is some rotten rock. Head up and clip and old 1/4 with long slings then down climb into the gully. From there it is a pretty easy scramble out.


Location 

The route begins to then left of white satin following the obvious left trending system to the top. Starts at a juniper.

Descent: Walk off

Protection 

double cams to #3
set of nuts
aiders


Comments on Snibble Tower Add Comment
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By Lady Tapas
From: Portland, OR
Sep 11, 2013

This is snibble tower and according to the guide book its a 5.10a A1 R. It was a fun climb but lots of sketchy rock. Perfect shade from noon on!
By Derrick Peppers
From: everywhere
Oct 31, 2013

what is sniffle tower? also, the 10a first pitch is pretty acurrate to other 10as in the park.
By David Wade
Jan 7, 2014

One of the "old" bolts on the aid traverse popped off on December 24. This section is now a little harder than A0. Could probably be freed in the 11s, and could probably be aided by someone comfortable/skilled with shaky aid.