A really fun sport route, featuring a tenuous start, thin slab/face climbing and a roof pull at the finish.
Starting next to a looming boulder, balance your way up onto the slab. Continue up to a shallow roof (protected by a bolt); pull the roof and continue to the anchors.
Follow the Sun Wall trail past the Whipping Post area a good ways until you reach a section where large blocks stand between you and the main wall. Crawl between the boulders to the start of Sneakers and Eclipse (a gear route to the left of Sneakers).
5 bolts, bolted anchors.
|By Jay Knower|
From: Campton, NH
Jan 18, 2008
It didn't seem like the climbing route followed the bolt line. After the first bolt, I kept wandering to the right. Maybe I was just lured by the bigger holds out there. Do most people stay right of the bolts, or was I just wimping out from the thin slab climbing (which would be likely for me)?
|By Geissler Golding|
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clipping the first bolt is very spicy! In retrospect, I'd stick-clip it next time. The route offers crimps with smears, slab, airy exposed arete moves, small roof and even a couple of good thin and strong face moves up top... Pretty happy to have returned to it. Note: the shuts (open) are fairly rusted, thankfully some well-meaning steward has placed two shiny new bolts w/ a chain and rap-ring - all super new.