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Sun Wall
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Sneakers 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeremy Weaver - 1997
Page Views: 1,450
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Derek rapping off of Sneakers. Photo by Mike N.

Description 

A really fun sport route, featuring a tenuous start, thin slab/face climbing and a roof pull at the finish.

Starting next to a looming boulder, balance your way up onto the slab. Continue up to a shallow roof (protected by a bolt); pull the roof and continue to the anchors.

Location 

Follow the Sun Wall trail past the Whipping Post area a good ways until you reach a section where large blocks stand between you and the main wall. Crawl between the boulders to the start of Sneakers and Eclipse (a gear route to the left of Sneakers).

Protection 

5 bolts, bolted anchors.


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jan 18, 2008

It didn't seem like the climbing route followed the bolt line. After the first bolt, I kept wandering to the right. Maybe I was just lured by the bigger holds out there. Do most people stay right of the bolts, or was I just wimping out from the thin slab climbing (which would be likely for me)?
By Geissler Golding
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Clipping the first bolt is very spicy! In retrospect, I'd stick-clip it next time. The route offers crimps with smears, slab, airy exposed arete moves, small roof and even a couple of good thin and strong face moves up top... Pretty happy to have returned to it. Note: the shuts (open) are fairly rusted, thankfully some well-meaning steward has placed two shiny new bolts w/ a chain and rap-ring - all super new.