Moving into the 6th crux, showing the route. The ...
This is the bolted line left of Rawhide. The ultra-thin face at the start has gotten thinner and thinner with each run through, so much so that one now almost requires a hand in the adjacent crack. A variation around to the right may pan out, but it is tenuous at best. Sequential moves above a [horizontal] band lead into some friable stone and a stance below the little roof. Move right and then cut back left to get established below the roof. Cool moves over the roof culminate in a big reach left to a good horn; should be quite hard if you don't have the ape index. A top-rope can be set up quite easily from above but use slings to drop the rope over the edge.
Yes, the lower face is still shedding holds. Really fun when you get past that face. I eventually stemmed for feet onto the wall on the left. I think you can avoid hands there and just use feet, not sure what this does to the rating though.
I tried the variation out right, and it was very good [until] the last few feet. I couldn't figure out a sequence to finish off. Lots of lichen on that corner.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 30, 2005
I think the horn at the top described as a "big reach left" may be gone. There is a decent rock scar. However, there is a lip at the rock scar that is, at least, serviceable, for now. Lots of cruxes, even on TR.
By Kat A From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO Nov 28, 2006
This is a fun route though I'd recommend a helmet for both climber and belayer. Some of the underclinging holds near the top seem very hollow and sketchy, even though they have a fair amount of chalk on them.
By Mike C. Robinson From: Rumney, NH Jul 10, 2007 rating: 5.12a/b7b26VIII+26E5 6a
If you stay on the slab and follow the bolt line directly this route is every bit of 12-. 11c/d if you go left and use the mini dihedral but the initial slab moves are definitely 12.
Did this yesterday with Scotty, Phil, and Erin. Great route and thought every hold was sold! There is a nice edge above the roof and a great left edge just above the mantle type move! Solid route 95 percent clean there was a couple holds mid way that seemed a smidge hollow. 2 thumbs up!!
Definitely a good climb, but the bolt line is a little contrived. Makes more sense to stay in the crack until the bolts force you out right. Probably closer to 11-. I don't think that going straight up the bolt line warrants a 12 rating either, way too featured to be a 5.12 slab....