This is the bolted line left of Rawhide. The ultra-thin face at the start has gotten thinner and thinner with each run through, so much so that one now almost requires a hand in the adjacent crack. A variation around to the right may pan out, but it is tenuous at best. Sequential moves above a [horizontal] band lead into some friable stone and a stance below the little roof. Move right and then cut back left to get established below the roof. Cool moves over the roof culminate in a big reach left to a good horn; should be quite hard if you don't have the ape index. A top-rope can be set up quite easily from above but use slings to drop the rope over the edge.
Addendum: the rock is a bit friable.
Ten draws and a rope.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 30, 2003
Yes, the lower face is still shedding holds. Really fun when you get past that face. I eventually stemmed for feet onto the wall on the left. I think you can avoid hands there and just use feet, not sure what this does to the rating though.
|By Matt Juth|
Aug 25, 2003
I tried the variation out right, and it was very good [until] the last few feet. I couldn't figure out a sequence to finish off. Lots of lichen on that corner.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 30, 2005
I think the horn at the top described as a "big reach left" may be gone. There is a decent rock scar. However, there is a lip at the rock scar that is, at least, serviceable, for now. Lots of cruxes, even on TR.
|By Kat A|
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Nov 28, 2006
This is a fun route though I'd recommend a helmet for both climber and belayer. Some of the underclinging holds near the top seem very hollow and sketchy, even though they have a fair amount of chalk on them.
|By Mike C. Robinson|
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 10, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a
If you stay on the slab and follow the bolt line directly this route is every bit of 12-. 11c/d if you go left and use the mini dihedral but the initial slab moves are definitely 12.
|By Cale Farnham|
Aug 14, 2009
Did this yesterday with Scotty, Phil, and Erin. Great route and thought every hold was sold! There is a nice edge above the roof and a great left edge just above the mantle type move! Solid route 95 percent clean there was a couple holds mid way that seemed a smidge hollow. 2 thumbs up!!
|By Lizzy Scully|
Aug 17, 2009
If you use the crack left of the bolt line, which is where all the chalk is, it is not a 5.12a. It's more like 5.11a/b. Great route.
From: Wichita, KS
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
I agree Leo, the horn is missing. We used the lip on the scar to finish the route as well.
|By George Bracksieck|
Nov 25, 2012
One of the anchor bolts at the top is missing a hanger and chain. Both anchor bolts are in fragile, crumbly rock. Back up with extension from anchors atop Rawhide.
|By Noah Hanawalt|
Jul 31, 2013
Definitely a good climb, but the bolt line is a little contrived. Makes more sense to stay in the crack until the bolts force you out right. Probably closer to 11-.
I don't think that going straight up the bolt line warrants a 12 rating either, way too featured to be a 5.12 slab....