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Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 0.8 from 6
votes
Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)
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Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bedeviled S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Book of Souls, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Loose Bottom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Muscle Crow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Paradise City S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ken Sims, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,233 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Jun 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
This dihedral is mostly 5.7 finger crack with a short well-protected 5.8 crux at the top. Rated 5.7 during it's re-discovery in the early 90's, the guidebooks have bumped it up to 5.8, and a 5.7 leader won't be happy. It's seen enough traffic so that it's not all that loose anymore, but it's main value lies in that it lets you get to the good stuff on the Upper Tier.
Team KNB (Kisiel, Newell, Beguin) is responsible for the anchor at the top of this pitch. The name Snazz By Nazz these guys gave to this pitch was unfortunately forgotten (and is one of the cooler route names around). Thanks Scott for this historical info.
Team KNB (Kisiel, Newell, Beguin) is responsible for the anchor at the top of this pitch. The name Snazz By Nazz these guys gave to this pitch was unfortunately forgotten (and is one of the cooler route names around). Thanks Scott for this historical info.
Protection
Standard trad rack 1 set nuts, 1 set cams. (If continuing up Guillotine Crack's pitch 2 or Rolling Brown Out, you'll want more gear.)
From the 2-bolt anchor, you can rappel back to the Grotto with a single 60m rope.
From the 2-bolt anchor, you can rappel back to the Grotto with a single 60m rope.
Photos
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