Another Cereal Wall classic! Spectacular face and slab climbing up a golden brown wall. Though it has a reputation for loose/fragile rock, don't let this scare you away. Deliberate climbing will liberate you.
P1- Climb the corner to a bulge/roof. Pull the roof and belay at a pine tree or continue up the corner to a gear belay atop a flake. 80-90 ft; 5.8
P2- Move right and climb up loose flakes to a roof with a pin(good tcu out right of the pin about 3 1/2 ft). Climb straight up and angling slightly left passing 3 bolts. At the third bolt move left to a ledge then weave your way up and right following the best holds to a double bolt belay. 100 ft; 5.10
P3- Step right of the belay and climb straight up to a bolt. Climb straight up then angle up and left about 5 feet following the gear and crimps. Continue up and right to a bolt. Move right to a lower angled slabby face. Climb up and right on sparse gear and past one runout section to a nice ledge. Slab up and right to a bolt. Climb up and belay at a large juniper tree. Spectacular!!! 130 ft; 5.11b (5.9r)
To get off you have 3 options.
1- Rap off the juniper tree and hit the belays for one of the other routes on the cereal wall. Not reccommended.
2- Scramble up and left to the overlook. When you reach the summit climb down and rap off of the closest pine tree(about 60 ft) down to the Wild Hickory Nut anchors. Continue down Wild Hickory Nuts. This is my favored option as it allows one to climb or top rope Wild Hickory Nuts.
3- Move up and right along the grassy tree ledge. Rap off of any large trees down to a double bolt anchor. This anchor can be seen by looking down and right once up and behind the cedar tree. Rap this down to another double bolt anchor beneath the headwall. Rap to ground.
Starts right of Instant Surreal about 40 ft at a low angle corner.
double tcu's to orange(triple blue and yellow helpful), camalots to blue(.3 and .4 very useful), small to medium nuts, tricams, many long runners, medium draws
Note-The FA bolts on this climb were replaced in Jan 2011.
From: Menlo Park, CA
Jan 5, 2011
You should swing over to the left and rebolt moosehead too if you have extra bolts. That one needs it pretty badly.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Dec 12, 2011
Phenomenal 3rd pitch! The P2 pin should be bypassed. There is a TCU placement about 4' to the right of the pin. Much more secure placement since that pin is very flexible. This climb would be ultra-classic if the 2nd pitch had some better quality rock. Even so, the 2nd pitch is fun and exciting with its sustained 9+/10 slabbing. The crux of this pitch may be finding the path. Post crux of P3 can also be very confusing for route finding, since there isn't much natural gear to follow. Probably more like 7/8R than the 9R the guide suggests. Look for the lone bolt up high and right below a juniper tree and just b-line it after surmounting the short left-facing flake. Maybe triples in the finger sized gear if you want to really sew it up and double up in a couple of spots. Highly recommended! Thanks for the upgrade Tim.
From: Columbia, SC
Dec 18, 2011
i'll add that after the corner i traversed back to climbers left to get a piece and generally went straight to the top, with a few placements .5-.75 C4 size, topping out on a large moss pad.
Fun route that i thought was pumpy, though i was continuously worried about breaking holds