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Snakeskin Buttress
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Snakeskin T 

Snakeskin 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: James Garrett, Pat Maloney, George Rosenthal, 12 April 1997
Page Views: 1,179
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Apr 11, 2007

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Jewls coming up ptch2 Snakeskin

Description 

Scramble up an easy face to a bolt. Slither past a pin and enter the weaknesses that snake to and fro. There are several possible variations, as the cracks and seams fork like a viperís tongue. Touchy traverses, an odd combination of jams, friction, face moves and rest stances will leave you smiling by the time you reach the belay ledge. For the second pitch (can be lead as one pitch, but the rope drag would be problematic), scramble up to a bolt and pop the crux bulge to a slab stance. Wind your way up the slab to a set of anchors just below the summit and enjoy the view. This is some of the highest quality rock at Ibex. The approach is a tad longer than some, but well worth the extra minute or two. There is a terrific flat spot upon which to deposit gear, change your shoes, relax, and belay. This area sees the sun for most of the day, but the sun goes over the horizon in the early evening, providing adequate shade on hotter days.

Location 

The south face of the Syringe Wall is divided by a chimney. Snakeskin climbs the weaknesses between the chimney and the arÍte to the left. A ledge is visible towards the top, and the second pitch disappears over the horizon above.

Protection 

Mixed bolts, fixed lost arrows (anodized blue) set of nuts and small to medium camming devices for the first pitch, all bolts for the second, crux pitch. A two rope rappel from the top anchors gains the base of the climb. Several long slings will help to alleviate rope drag. Some of the fixed protection is placed in awkward places that wind back and forth across the weaknesses. Also, it may be wise to back up the pitons that are bent (they werenít fully seated and have yet to be tied off). A helmet is recommended.


Photos of Snakeskin Slideshow Add Photo
Ben seconding the first pitch.
Ben seconding the first pitch.
This fatty rattly was found a few feet right of the base of Snakeskin on 4/20/10.
This fatty rattly was found a few feet right of th...
Ben arriving at the slab just after pulling the crux bulge. <br />It seems that the quickdraw is the subject, since it is in focus and Ben isn't.
Ben arriving at the slab just after pulling the cr...
Snakeskin slithers up the weaknesses in the center of the photo.  You can see the roof crux of the second pitch on the horizon.
BETA PHOTO: Snakeskin slithers up the weaknesses in the center...
Leading up to the crux of Snakeskin on the second pitch.
Leading up to the crux of Snakeskin on the second ...
Two of the four rattlers we saw at the base of Snakeskin.
Two of the four rattlers we saw at the base of Sna...
Looking down at the first pitch.  Winds a bit, so don't forget those longer slings.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the first pitch. Winds a bit, so ...
Duc goes for the marginal hand jams near the end of the long first pitch. <br /> <br />April 2013
Duc goes for the marginal hand jams near the end o...

Comments on Snakeskin Add Comment
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By Greg Martinez
From: SLC UTAH
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

the 2nd pitch was better than the 1st scary anchor on pitch 2.
By Blake Summers
From: Park City, Utah
Apr 21, 2010

Fun route!Beware the rattlesnake infested corner at the base of Snakeskin. Saw four there 4/20/10.
By BobGray
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 17, 2012

What a great route! One of the must do routes at Ibex. Bring your A game though, not for the 5.9 leader.
By Roy Suggett
Nov 1, 2012

Fun old school route! Not just clipping bolts...it's a thinker!
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 10, 2013

A single 70 m will get you down. The second pitch is fairly short and the leader can lower back down to the belay if desired.
By Nik Sorenson
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If it is windy, walking off is the best option (and it may be in any case). We got our rope stuck in between the large boulder and wall just below the 2nd pitch anchor. The boulder has that sharp stuff near at the constriction so it grabs ropes. It's easy to walk around and rap down to free it, if you have another rope, but it takes time.
By James Garrett
Oct 12, 2014

Pitch #2 Rappel Anchor retrofitted October 2014. Pulls no problem.