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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Snake 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Hans Krauss, Susanne Simon 1944
Page Views: 896
Submitted By: Artem Lebedev on Oct 6, 2008
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Description 

P1: (5.6) Climb up the right-facing broken corner to the ledge, then climb up a crack with a small tree (V1). Continue on the easier ground above the tree, make a balancy move (crux), and then climb up to the GT ledge. This pitch is a nice and well-protected outing, and you can traverse to the last pitches of routes between Snake and Arrow.

P2: (5.7) Climb a huge right-facing corner, pass a bush, choke off grass and a big tree. Continue up the crack (hand to fist jam at the bottom, chicken wing at the top) to the ledge with rap slings.

V1 5.8 G FA: Joe Bridges, Dick Williams, 1987
From the Snake crack move out left and climb difficult looking finger-crack through an overhanging bulge.

It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.


Location 

Begins 40 ft right of Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct, half way up the slope towards Red Pillar.


Protection 

Standard rack, big cams (BD #3-5) for the second pitch



Photos of Snake Slideshow Add Photo
Start Snake by climbing the right-facing corner to the tree.
BETA PHOTO: Start Snake by climbing the right-facing corner to...
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By Artem Lebedev
From: Santa Monica, CA
Oct 6, 2008

Although the guidebooks do not recommend the second pitch, I found it very interesting and challenging. Rare example of non-trivial crack in Gunks. Admittedly, it is wet and dirty.

By doligo
Jun 6, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

The headwall on P1 is a committing fingercrack move - stiff for the grade if you are short. Bring smaller stoppers to backup the old pin (I used a BD #2). I agree that P2 could be interesting, but it's dirty, grassy and the bush is about to fall off any minute. There is no pro till the the tree ledge some 50ft up (I didn't bring any big cams for this). The OW on top looked fun, but the face is covered in moss, so I backed off. Funny thing, I saw a black snake at the start of the climb as well!

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 16, 2012

P1 is a lot of fun. Easy peasy climbing leads to a mellow crux, back to easy peasy. Great for a newb follower.

By BrianRH
Sep 16, 2013

This route is easy to protect on the first pitch and has much better climbing than appears likely from the ground. I agree this would be a superb route for a new 5.6 leader. Also, its deceptively unappealing start means it's more likely to be available.

We finished on what I believe was the 3rd pitch of Steep Hiking, which the Williams guide puts at 5.6 and I'd have rated 5.7 or 5.8 (but I haven't climbed a lot whole lot of slab in the past decade so maybe it was just me.) It was the relatively lichen-free strip about 15 feet over from the dirty corner where Snake finishes. A bit runout between stellar gear placements.

By Charlie Kelly
Nov 1, 2013

I thought this climb was pretty awesome. Make sure you go left at the tree and don't place anything to the right after you pass it. Felt like I was dragging a Volkswagen up with me through the crux. Also, people, keep checking those pins! I clipped one on this route only to have it pull out when I gave the draw a little tug.