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Snake dike early spring?
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Feb 6, 2013
Me
Hi,
I'm considering climbing Snake Dike early March but I'm nor sure what condition I would find. What's the best approach? How much snow should I expect? What gear should I bring?



Pascal Ripoche
From Pittsburgh PA
Joined Oct 14, 2010
201 points
Feb 6, 2013
What is the weather going to be like in Yosemite 6 weeks from now during a traditionally wet month? Hard to say.

Keep an eye on the webcam
yosemiteconservancy.org/webcam...
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,895 points
Feb 6, 2013
Have you done the approach and route before?
You'll also need to think about the conditions on the descent, and whether or not you'd want to use the cables. I understand they're removed for winter. That will likely slow your descent.
TWK
Joined Sep 15, 2012
164 points
Feb 6, 2013
On the descent ... The cables are still in place , the supports are removed though , so the cables are lying flat on the granite . You can lift them though , or put a runner / biner around them for a bit of added safety .

Spray from the Mist Trail will likely get you wet , so you might consider taking the John Muir Trail approach ... across the top of Nevada Falls .
vincent L.
From Redwood City
Joined Jan 1, 2005
617 points
Feb 6, 2013
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
Supertopo has a great route description and overview. Decending the downed cables is easy. I did it last summer. All you do is put a pruisk on the cable then clip into it. you walk down and the pruisk catches you if you fall.

The pitches are runout slab so a few quickdraws / alpine slings are good for the majority of the pitches. The anchors are bolted belays so short cordlettes work fine.

The first pitch takes gear as you have to traverse under a small roof. 4 cams and a set of nuts will do fine.

The last pitch after you leave the final top bolts can be soloed. My gf and I used the cams and nuts for a safety belay until we got onto comfortable slab walking.

Start super early or expect to wait in line at every single belay. .....
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
67 points
Feb 6, 2013
Hanging out after climbing a route in Eldo on a co...
If there has been a recent snowstorm, the cables could be buried under snow/ice, and impossible to use. But you probably wouldn't attempt the route after a snowstorm. The crux of your plan would be the approach/deproach, by far. David A
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 23, 2008
135 points
Feb 6, 2013
The pitches are runout slab so a few quickdraws / alpine slings are good for the majority of the pitches. The anchors are bolted belays so short cordlettes work fine. The first pitch takes gear as you have to traverse under a small roof. 4 cams and a set of nuts will do fine. /quote>

I think we took a set of nuts and maybe a blue or yellow metolius sized piece, and BD .5-1, so 4 cams and some nuts seems about right. I distinctly remember placing the .75, but nothing else gear specific. you really only need maybe 5 draws or something, if I recall correctly the majority of the pitches only have a couple bolts, but the climbing is casual.
frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Feb 6, 2013
Living the High Life.
As said above, my biggest concern would be snow/ice on the short class 3+ slabs on the approach. After that, I bet it would be spectacular in March. Good luck. Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Joined Aug 22, 2007
337 points
Feb 6, 2013
I think you could encounter enough snow on the approach and descent to make for a very long day, so try to get current snow depth intel before you go. TWK
Joined Sep 15, 2012
164 points


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