Snake Dance 5.13+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13+ [details] |
| FA: | Dave Pegg, 1995 |
| Submitted By: | LeeAB on Aug 5, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Snake Dance and Slab City
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Description A boulder problem low, revolving around a terrible left hand 3 finger sloping edge and a very high, bad left foot gains a right facing corner which is followed to a good rest at a two handed jug. Then ascend the finger crack/seam with moves that get progressively harder to a comfortized 3 finger pocket, clip with some difficulty or blow it off, as the feet are bad here and fire the crux pulling the bulge onto the face above. This route has a 3 finger pocket in the middle of the upper section that has seen some work, I'm not entirely sure if it was just comfortized or completely manufactured, I believe the move was done prior to it being altered, but I don't know if a hold was there or not to begin with. Some have called this route 5.13d/5.14a, but I really don't think it is any harder than 5.13d, though I could be wrong.
Location Far left route on the slab wall.
Protection 7 Bolts and anchors, also a couple of stray bolts out right.
By Jean Sep 1, 2008
| this route has two parts: a burly v9 boulder problem at the start leads to an almost complete rest (a double handed incut jugs in a slaby section). dave pegg used a knee scum to do this crux which timmy fairfield avoided it on the second ascent. the second part is a probably 13b by itself. |
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