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(02) The Slab Wall
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Snake Dance 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Dave Pegg, 1995
Page Views: 819
Submitted By: LeeAB on Aug 5, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Snake Dance and Slab City

Description 

A boulder problem low, revolving around a terrible left hand 3 finger sloping edge and a very high, bad left foot gains a right facing corner which is followed to a good rest at a two handed jug. Then ascend the finger crack/seam with moves that get progressively harder to a comfortized 3 finger pocket, clip with some difficulty or blow it off, as the feet are bad here and fire the crux pulling the bulge onto the face above. This route has a 3 finger pocket in the middle of the upper section that has seen some work, I'm not entirely sure if it was just comfortized or completely manufactured, I believe the move was done prior to it being altered, but I don't know if a hold was there or not to begin with.

Some have called this route 5.13d/5.14a, but I really don't think it is any harder than 5.13d, though I could be wrong.


Location 

Far left route on the slab wall.


Protection 

7 Bolts and anchors, also a couple of stray bolts out right.



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By Jean
Sep 1, 2008

this route has two parts:
a burly v9 boulder problem at the start leads to an almost complete rest (a double handed incut jugs in a slaby section). dave pegg used a knee scum to do this crux which timmy fairfield avoided it on the second ascent.
the second part is a probably 13b by itself.