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Reptile Rock
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Snake Charmer T 

Snake Charmer 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ninfa Cauchois and Philip Swiny
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 519
Submitted By: Jason D. Martin on Apr 3, 2009

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A party about half way up Snake Charmer.

Description 

The Snake Charmer is a fun little route that may be found on the right side of Reptile Rock. The line ascends an obvious dogleg crack in 2-4 pitches (depending on how you do it.)

Pitch One:
Ascend third class terrain to the base of the dogleg crack (3rd 45'). Certainly this may be scrambled and not pitched out.

Pitch Two:
Climb the right trending dogleg crack. The crux is right off the anchor -- it's a good idea to put in an anchor, because if someone blows off, you'll both take a ride down the third class terrain. Follow the crack to a double bolt anchor at a ledge at the base of a vertical crack (70' 5.6)

Pitch Three:
Climb straight up the crack, passing an annoying tree, to the face above. Beware the loose holds on the upper face. Pass three bolts to an anchor. It is possible to rappel the route from here.

Pitch Four:
Optional pitch -- some may find it easier to do another short pitch to the top of the feature.

From the top of the crag, step across a small gully and climb a low angle crack to an easy descent.

Location 

This route is on the right side of the Reptile Rock. The line ascends the obvious dogleg crack.

Protection 

Single to 3"


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