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The Grotto
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AC Devil Dog S 
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Granted T 
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Hole in the Wall T,TR 
Journey to Find the Sun S 
Men's Crisis Center T,S 
Moss Critique S 
Prime Directive S 
Rawhide T,TR 
Snake Bite T,TR 
Squealer T,S 
Table Manners T,TR 
Table Manners - Left T,TR 
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To Pin or Not To Be T,S 

Snake Bite 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Peter Croft, 1989
Page Views: 1,736
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 4, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Getting into the fingers on Snake Bite.

Photo: J...
Open, with restrictions: private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

About 4 colums left of AC Devil Dog, there is a thin crack that goes over a small roof. This is Snake Bite.

The climbing starts as 5.8 stemming then pulls the small roof (5.10-) then the crux section pulls a very thin crack for about 10 feet until larger holds present themselves.


Protection 

Solid to medium pro is needed to protect the crack. Placements are pretty easy.



Photos of Snake Bite Slideshow Add Photo
Moving into the layback section on Snake Bite. <br /> <br />Photo: James Sullivan
Moving into the layback section on Snake Bite.

Ph...
Micha taking the Snake by the neck and bites it back!
Micha taking the Snake by the neck and bites it ba...
Comments on Snake Bite Add Comment
Show which comments
By dean fleming
From: sonora ca
Feb 18, 2006

gear is hard to place when laybacking the last portion of the route. the crack up there is wierd too.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Nov 25, 2006

I did this on TR, but found the finger crack so sharp and painful that I avoided using it as much as possible and used neighboring face holds instead (big decrease in difficulty). Leading this would be tough with the painful jams and fiddly gear - the crack is very weird.

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

crux for me was also the last portion of the route in the laybacking section. Got a good stance at the bottom, placed 3 marginal pieces of gear (gear is kinda funky, crack has lots of crystals on the inside), the best of the three was a yellow alien. I tried firing to the top twice and fell twice, then made some funky moves and hit the godsend jug at the top. Sick route... deserves more stars.