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Snake Alley 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 22, 2012

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Danger at the top of the 2nd pitch


Start up the buttress to the right of Tofu Tower on big holds. Step right onto the ledge and protect as you can with runners. Step back left onto the ledge to scope the next move or pull straight up onto the face. This bit is often wet. Step right across a horizontal, then continue up the face to a small ledge. Pull the crux just above this ledge, and top out at a glue-in bolt anchor.

The second pitch starts about 20 feet up and left, through the encroaching pandanus plants, through a small bulge. Runner the anchor to prevent a fall directly onto your belayer. Pull through this to get up onto the slab. Climb the slab, trending right to the arete, and step around the arete at a slight overhang into the obtuse corner. Continue up this corner with sustained but moderate climbing until the holds become more numerous and you eventually top out at a SWEET ledge. Enjoy the view from the best vantage point in this area.

Two rappels with a 60m rope get you to the ground. There are numerous anchors.


Between the main Golden Valley area and the Cathouse. First route to the right of Tofu Tower.


Gear to 2" ... a little heady, but safe
1st pitch anchor: one 316 steel (2013) and one dangerous bolt (2002)
2nd pitch anchor: one 316 steel (2013) and two dangerous bolts (2002), all connected with old ropes and slings

Photos of Snake Alley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Snake Alley
The start of Snake Alley
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st broken bolt (2008)
BETA PHOTO: 1st broken bolt (2008)
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd broken bolt (2014)
2nd broken bolt (2014)

Comments on Snake Alley Add Comment
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By BrianWS
Oct 30, 2013

The glue in was broken roughly around 2008, not long after installation. The bolt broke after the climber took while about a foot above, but luckily the closely-spaced bolt just below held.

Inferior steel, perhaps. Poor installation may have been the culprit too. In either case, it is the only glue-in breakage in the area that I heard of.

If in doubt about the bolts, bring a handful of camming units in the finger to tight hands range. There are plenty of options for placements on the first pitch, I don't recall the second very well.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Nov 4, 2013

According to Matt's book, the bolts were placed in 2002. They are the bolts that Dirk and Edgar used on all their other routes - a 304-steel made by Ferno. They are considered dangerous and should not be trusted.
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Jun 21, 2014

The 2nd pitch is just as good as the first and goes grat on gear but has spicy but safe runout at one committing section.

2nd pitch anchors now do not have chain but slings in various states of wear

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