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Start up the buttress to the right of Tofu Tower on big holds. The second bolt is quite high, so step right onto the ledge or risk a ground-fall. Runner the third bolt, and step left onto the ledge to scope the next move or pull straight up onto the face. This bit is often wet. Step right across a horizontal, then continue up the face to a small ledge. Pull the crux just above this ledge, and top out at a glue-in bolt anchor.
The first bolt of the second pitch is about 20 feet up and left, through the encroaching pandanus plants, at the top of a small bulge. Runner the anchor to prevent a fall directly onto your belayer. Pull through this to get up onto the slab. Climb the slab, trending right to the arete, and step around the arete at a slight overhang into the obtuse corner. Continue up this corner with sustained but moderate climbing until the holds become more numerous and you eventually top out at a SWEET ledge. Enjoy the view from the best vantage point in this area.
Two rappels with a 60m rope get you to the ground. There are numerous anchors.
Between the main Golden Valley area and the Cathouse. First route to the right of Tofu Tower.
The glue-in bolts on this route may be solid, or they may be dangerously corroded and not show it. They are made from an inferior steel and have broken before, though nobody was injured. People still climb this route regularly.
Lead: 8 GI bolts
Anchor: 2 SS GI bolts
Lead: 9 GI bolts
Anchor: 1 GI & 1 expansion bolt & 1 chain + rap ring
Oct 30, 2013
The glue in was broken roughly around 2008, not long after installation. The bolt broke after the climber took while about a foot above, but luckily the closely-spaced bolt just below held.
Inferior steel, perhaps. Poor installation may have been the culprit too. In either case, it is the only glue-in breakage in the area that I heard of.
If in doubt about the bolts, bring a handful of camming units in the finger to tight hands range. There are plenty of options for placements on the first pitch, I don't recall the second very well.
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Nov 4, 2013
According to Matt's book, the bolts were placed in 2002. They are the bolts that Dirk and Edgar used on all their other routes - a 304-steel German-made bolt. They can be found on the Euro Wall, the Dragonboat Wall (rebolted but not removed yet), and on a few routes at the Backdoor.