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(8) Golden Valley
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Around the Corner S 
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Black Gold T 
Black Magic Woman T 
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I Love Taiwan T 
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Never S 
Nugget T 
Pearl Necklace T 
Snake Alley T 
String Bikini T 
Tanz en Den Mai S 
Teamwork T,S 
Tofu Tower T 
Very Inconvenient S 
Wet and Hairy S 
White-Faced Man S 
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Snake Alley 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 22, 2012

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Danger at the top of the 2nd pitch

Description 

Start up the buttress to the right of Tofu Tower on big holds. The second bolt is quite high, so step right onto the ledge or risk a ground-fall. Runner the third bolt, and step left onto the ledge to scope the next move or pull straight up onto the face. This bit is often wet. Step right across a horizontal, then continue up the face to a small ledge. Pull the crux just above this ledge, and top out at a glue-in bolt anchor.

The first bolt of the second pitch is about 20 feet up and left, through the encroaching pandanus plants, at the top of a small bulge. Runner the anchor to prevent a fall directly onto your belayer. Pull through this to get up onto the slab. Climb the slab, trending right to the arete, and step around the arete at a slight overhang into the obtuse corner. Continue up this corner with sustained but moderate climbing until the holds become more numerous and you eventually top out at a SWEET ledge. Enjoy the view from the best vantage point in this area.

Two rappels with a 60m rope get you to the ground. There are numerous anchors.

Location 

Between the main Golden Valley area and the Cathouse. First route to the right of Tofu Tower.

Protection 

Gear to 2" ... a little heady, but safe

WARNING!
The lead bolts - Ferno CT 304-steel (installed 2002) - on this route should not be trusted. One broke in a lead fall in 2008, and two others have obvious cracks. There is one 2013 glue-in bolt at each anchor. You can back up the first pitch anchor with a nearby Ferno bolt which looks okay, just be sure to pull the correct end of the rope when you're down. The second pitch anchor is an old nest of mank - one new bolt, one expansion bolt, and one Ferno bolt, all connected with variably old ropes and slings with a single rappel ring.


Photos of Snake Alley Slideshow Add Photo
The start of Snake Alley
The start of Snake Alley
1st broken bolt (2008)
BETA PHOTO: 1st broken bolt (2008)
2nd broken bolt (2014)
2nd broken bolt (2014)

Comments on Snake Alley Add Comment
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By BrianWS
Oct 30, 2013

The glue in was broken roughly around 2008, not long after installation. The bolt broke after the climber took while about a foot above, but luckily the closely-spaced bolt just below held.

Inferior steel, perhaps. Poor installation may have been the culprit too. In either case, it is the only glue-in breakage in the area that I heard of.

If in doubt about the bolts, bring a handful of camming units in the finger to tight hands range. There are plenty of options for placements on the first pitch, I don't recall the second very well.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Nov 4, 2013

According to Matt's book, the bolts were placed in 2002. They are the bolts that Dirk and Edgar used on all their other routes - a 304-steel made by Ferno. They are considered dangerous and should not be trusted.
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Jun 21, 2014

The 2nd pitch is just as good as the first and goes grat on gear but has spicy but safe runout at one committing section.

2nd pitch anchors now do not have chain but slings in various states of wear
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