Start up the buttress to the right of Tofu Tower on big holds. The second bolt is quite high, so step right onto the ledge or risk a ground-fall. Runner the third bolt, and step left onto the ledge to scope the next move or pull straight up onto the face. This bit is often wet. Step right across a horizontal, then continue up the face to a small ledge. Pull the crux just above this ledge, and top out at a glue-in bolt anchor.
The first bolt of the second pitch is about 20 feet up and left, through the encroaching pandanus plants, at the top of a small bulge. Runner the anchor to prevent a fall directly onto your belayer. Pull through this to get up onto the slab. Climb the slab, trending right to the arete, and step around the arete at a slight overhang into the obtuse corner. Continue up this corner with sustained but moderate climbing until the holds become more numerous and you eventually top out at a SWEET ledge. Enjoy the view from the best vantage point in this area.
Two rappels with a 60m rope get you to the ground. There are numerous anchors.
Between the main Golden Valley area and the Cathouse. First route to the right of Tofu Tower.
Gear to 2" ... a little heady, but safe
The lead bolts - Ferno CT 304-steel (installed 2002) - on this route should not be trusted. One broke in a lead fall in 2008, and two others have obvious cracks. There is one 2013 glue-in bolt at each anchor. You can back up the first pitch anchor with a nearby Ferno bolt which looks okay, just be sure to pull the correct end of the rope when you're down. The second pitch anchor is an old nest of mank - one new bolt, one expansion bolt, and one Ferno bolt, all connected with variably old ropes and slings with a single rappel ring.
BETA PHOTO: 1st broken bolt (2008)
Oct 30, 2013
The glue in was broken roughly around 2008, not long after installation. The bolt broke after the climber took while about a foot above, but luckily the closely-spaced bolt just below held.
Inferior steel, perhaps. Poor installation may have been the culprit too. In either case, it is the only glue-in breakage in the area that I heard of.
If in doubt about the bolts, bring a handful of camming units in the finger to tight hands range. There are plenty of options for placements on the first pitch, I don't recall the second very well.
By Nate Ball
From: Taipei, TW
Nov 4, 2013
According to Matt's book, the bolts were placed in 2002. They are the bolts that Dirk and Edgar used on all their other routes - a 304-steel made by Ferno. They are considered dangerous and should not be trusted.
From: Taipei City
Jun 21, 2014
The 2nd pitch is just as good as the first and goes grat on gear but has spicy but safe runout at one committing section.
2nd pitch anchors now do not have chain but slings in various states of wear