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SM's Delight 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Campbell, P. Kubik July 1980
Page Views: 598
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006

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Description 

Climb the slightly flared crack just left of Mosquito. Harder then it looks with fiddly gear.


Protection 

Small rack from .75 - 1 camalots



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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 21, 2006

F'in hard (especially when it's raining).

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun. Harder than your typical Squamish 10b. I placed a #2 and #3 camalot higher up, despite the description above.

By Brian Alexander
Aug 31, 2009

This is one of my favorite routes of the grade in the Smoke Bluffs. Bring a small rack from the yellow TCU to #1 Camalot. I placed 1 #2 cam near the top.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Clean white rock on this one fools you into thinking that it is dry, but the crack drains water all the way down in wet times, holding water long after rain has stopped. If it is seeping water at the base, be warned- you are in for a sandbag.
That said, the climbing is still very good and reasonably well protected, and worth doing. Rather than finish at the chain anchor, complete the crack system by clipping the chains with a draw and continuing upwards through 'Curry the Dog.' Getting off with require 2 raps, but at lest you get a longer & more continuous pitch than the Smoke Bluffs area normally offers.

By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 13, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Agree that it's tricky, thought the pro was straight forward though. Pumpy on insecure feet, but it's only hard for the first half.

Gear recommendation here is pretty weird too. Take gear from blue metolius to #3 Camalot, plus some small nuts up to finger size. You could get away with yellow metolius to #2 Camalot though. The thin stuff you can see from the ground, but once you pass the crux all the appropriate pro for the next 12m ranges from .75-#3. The grade drops dramatically (~5.8) but it's still a ways to go to the anchor and you'll want a few good pieces to plug.