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Sunset North
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S'More 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,126
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Jan 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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BETA PHOTO: Jeff really didn't need to see Chuck stretching hi...

Description 

Climb the crack in the right-facing corner to the weird, giant roof/flake thing. Go around the right side of this, then head for anchors in the corner at the top.

Location 

On the climber's right of the overlook area, in a right-facing corner.

Protection 

standard rack


Photos of S'More Slideshow Add Photo
Charles Cooper under the roof section on Smores. Good view of the route.
Charles Cooper under the roof section on Smores. G...

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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Nice route! When I led it, I assumed working the roof was part of the route, so I did, and that felt like the crux to me. Later, I saw someone else bypass the roof altogether by traversing the face below it and then up into the corner; I did that on toprope and it was far easier. I don't know which is the right way to do it, but I think the face traverse drops it to the 5.7 range.
By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010

great corner with handjams!!
By Harry Baxley
Aug 5, 2010

One of the anchor hangers is missing.
By willeslinger
From: Golden, Colorado
Sep 5, 2010

I'm going to replace that anchor. The bolt's still in there, so it's not going to be much to fix.
By Dmyers89
Apr 2, 2012

Be warned, the chockstone above the roof is quite loose. I tested it with a .75 and the crack expanded when the cam was placed. Better pro in the crack ~5ft above. Otherwise, a great route.
By Charles Cooper
May 15, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route. The finish of the route is very easy, and the start is definitely the crux. Combine stemming with toe jamming at the start. Two bolt anchors are currently in excellent condition.
By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
Sep 15, 2013

Great route. Bolts are accessible from the top.