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Start by climbing the orange face, heading away from the crack of Manute Bol. Continue up to a great stance where you clip the 2nd bolt. At this point, if you dare to use the loose hold, the move can be made much easier, but you can certainly do without it. Once you gain the 3rd bolt, head up and right, pull the small roof and gain a large ledge to rest on. From the ledge, traverse left passing a bolt and aim for a small overhang. Pull this overhang and continue up the white face. The crux moves are reaching the pin which lies about 7 ft below the anchors. Very nice climbing with good rests!
This route starts on the face immediately to the left of Manute Bol. Behind this route is the trail that goes directly to Idol Point if you want to bypass the Fern Cirque.
7 bolts, 1 pin, shuts. Pin can be backed up with a slightly smaller than finger sized cam.
From: North Carolina
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lots of variety, and lots of rests. This one did have some reachy sequences, especially clipping the bolt at the roof down low.
Jan 14, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
A red C3 goes nicely in place of the old-but-solid pin.
Essentially a three-tiered climb, with a different nature of climbing for each section of rocks.