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Smooth Operator 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Andy Ross
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: apross on Sep 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Same as the main wall routes.

Bouldery start to nice pockets/jugs.

Location 

Right of Wasp Stop, on wall between the main wall and Long Shadows.

Protection 

7 bolts to ring anchors.


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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jun 17, 2012

Bouldery start is right: I climbed up; tried out various tiny, uncomfortable holds. I climbed down. I climbed up and over; tried pockets. I climbed back over and down. I climbed up, thought about committing, climbed down. I climbed up, committed, guessed wrong. I fell down (onto the first bolt).

Lowered down and started over. Figured out where the (itty-bitty) hold I needed is, and fell off when an intermediate hold broke. Lowered again. Finally grunted through the start on features only loosely resembling holds and sent, but man!

As the cliche goes, this route should "clean up nicely" although the choss fairly rained from the line during both my and my partner's ascents.
By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Jun 18, 2012

The start on this is thin. Past the cruxy start you'll find some rests. The climb is a bit nerve racking because of broken rock that you'll need to pull on. The last 15 feet is perplexing too. Be careful.