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 ADVANCED
Fern Point - Party Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autum Fire T 
Back in the Saddle T 
Biohazard T 
Diversity in Microcosm T 
Diversity in Microcosm Variation Finish T 
Eat My Dust S 
Exoduster S 
Freaky Stylee S 
Harbinger Scarab S 
Manute Bol T 
Modern Primitive S 
Party All the Time T 
Party in My Mind T 
Party Till Your Blind T 
Pocket Pussy S 
Premarital Bliss T 
S'more Energy S 
Smooth Operator T 
Stealth and Magic S 
Stim-O-Stam S 
Techman S 

Smooth Operator 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rick Fairtrace, Scott Jones (Oct. 1985)
Page Views: 1,823
Submitted By: DaveB on Sep 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Stemming through the fun upper half of the route.

Description 

Like fist jamming? If so, this route's for you. Ease into crack from right, commence jamming, and be ready to place gear (somewhat slick here). Beyond fistcrack (crux), work up to flaring pod utilizing generous horizontals and ledges. At large chockstone, move out left onto face and up left-leaning crack/flake. Layback and jam to top!

Location 

From Fern Point ladders, go left through corridor past Mellifluous, Freeky Stylee, Biohazard, Party All The Time. At the next corner/dihedral, look for a couple of fist and off-width cracks. (A ledge, halfway up the right crack, maintains a large stick bird's nest...with white sh*t streaks oozing down the rock.) Smooth Operator is the fist crack LEFT of this (see photo).

Protection 

Small-med-large. #4 Friends for initial fistcrack. Optional #5 and/or #6 Friend(s) for the top.

No anchors. (There should be for this quality route.)
Rap from tree with 60m rope.


Photos of Smooth Operator Slideshow Add Photo
Leader's view from the start.
BETA PHOTO: Leader's view from the start.
Smooth Operator (5.9+).
BETA PHOTO: Smooth Operator (5.9+).
Hutch on the super fun upper section of Smooth Operator.
Hutch on the super fun upper section of Smooth Ope...
14yr old Matt fist jamming the start.
14yr old Matt fist jamming the start.

Comments on Smooth Operator Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 8, 2007

This route is usually wet. If you find it dry, get on it, it's good!
By C Runyan
From: Pennsylvania
Sep 4, 2008

Fun route that is nowhere near as burly as it looks from below. And no offwidth technique is required; you can leave the #5 and #6 behind.

I placed two #4 camalots (one low and one high). But I didn't bring a #6 and I didn't need the #5 I hauled up. I just dumped the #5 in the flake up high to get rid of the weight.
By Alan Howell
May 31, 2012

Good route. Nothing too awkward. Good pro.
By Vicki Schwantes
From: Washington, DC
Jun 11, 2012

Really great route, great moves and pro! It's currently holding our #4 cam hostage. If anyone happens to retrieve it and would like a 6 pack of beer or just new friends please message me! Ultimately, we just hope someone gets it out. It's a cool looking line, hate to clutter it up.
By ShockSLL
From: Charlotte, NC
Jun 11, 2012

That cam is stuck really good. Those bottom lobes don't seem to be moving at all. Your best bet is for a really cold day.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Mar 24, 2014

I'd give this rig 4 stars if it wasn't for the slimy OW finish. Slick fists at the bottom are rewarded by jugs and good horizontals right when you need them. Great rests, variety of movement and all around fun. Superb route.