Smooth as Eggs  V7 X

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Type:  Boulder Consensus:  V7 [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Andrew Tower on Jul 1, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

the scary problem. enjoy

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This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>> Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>> Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is a very scary project that no one I know has had the cojones to actually give a good effort on. It is up the hill a little ways from the Attic Arete and faces southish. Start under the short roof in the crack that splits the back of it. Sit on top a boulder to reach start. As soon as you make the first move the ground drops out below you and as you continue moving left through the crack the ground drops further away and the landing gets even worse. at the end of the crack (where the holds get very small) you have to throw out and left over a bulge to a slopy end. by now you'll be 20 ft. up with your back to the sharp talus below as you try to press out a very difficult looking mantle. Has not been done for obvious reasons and grade is very approximate because no one has done it.

Protection 

Lots and lots and lots of pads and lots and lots and lots of spotters. very very important.