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Routes in Hole 'N' the Rock Area
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Seraph T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2 |
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Smoot Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ R |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | The Smoot Brothers |
| Page Views: | 1,120 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Jun 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route begins from a large ledge on the north side of the tower. Climb the very soft slab to a stance. Go up the soft corner to the traverse, then up the headwall to a bolted anchor.
The route is extremely soft. The pins I placed were often removed by hand. The only time I felt a fall would be caught was when two pieces were placed together and equalized.
The route is extremely soft. The pins I placed were often removed by hand. The only time I felt a fall would be caught was when two pieces were placed together and equalized.
Protection
I took a few peckers, a couple of L.A types, and a host of angles up to 3/4. As I tried toplace double friends where ever I could get in one, I recomend at least a double set from .5 to 3. One big piece, like a 6, might make the softness at the top more easy, though its not necessary. A single rope reaches from the summit to the ledge
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