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Smoky Joes Cafe 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 15'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P-Nom Aquas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 113
Submitted By: PDub-Trad on Jul 22, 2010

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Description 

The last cliffband before the end of the Garden (and milepost 4) is to the climbers right as your facing the Original Garden from the road. In the winter months this band is highly visible, less so in-season, but climbable year round.

This is it infamous cliffband where someone has bolted a 5.12+ sport route, fixed a rope to it and then left it for about a decade.

In 2003, 10 or twelve lines to the right of this 5.12+ proj I established 3 gear (nuts+cams) protected routes that are also extremely good t/r's. The one that stood out utilized two ballnut sliding nuts for crux moves on 5.10+/- terrain. I placed one bolt, used it to climb the route for its FA. A friend of mine climbed it, took and lowered at the bolt never grabbing the Second Ascent.

Then I pulled the bolt to use elsewhere. Likely never climbed since. I hacked out the approach trail to this cliffband in 2006 and 8. When I headed there this season, trail into lowest cliffband completely choked with poison oak and blackberry brush.

Location 

Lowest and last cliffband. Climbers right of the 5.12+ project with hanging rope. I've done some other aid climbs between Smoky Joes and the project. This wall has the potential to be a great local hard-mans wall with extremely steep terrain needing bolts....

Protection 

a handful of cams and nuts, the most vital ones being the smallest and second smallest size sliding nut (ballnuts) for crux moves in the roof section before the bolt/bolthole can be reached


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