Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Minnehaha
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alfred Hitchcock Presents 
Apprentice Route 
Back Tree Crack 
Bat Crack 
Black Corner 
Dave's Delicate Traverse 
Diagonal , The 
Diamond Crack  
Dihedral Arete 
Dihedral, The 
Dirk Diggler 
Don Quixote 
Eddie's Overhang 
Freeing South Africa 
Heart Route 
Hooker, The 
Hot Licks  
Inside Corner 
Jam Crack 
Left of main crack 
Lichen It A Bit More Traverse 
Lichen Traverse 
Lots of Nothing 
Love Bulge 
Mad Dog 
Maginot Line 
Main Crack 
Open Book 
Open Book Direct 
Peckerman Direct 
Penis Pencilman 
Peter Peckerman 
Prow, The 
Romancing the Stone 
Ron's Climb 
Rush-Ins are coming, The 
Rusty 
Screaming Fingers 
Smokey On Fire 
Smokey Overhang 
Southern Exposure 
Starbabies 
Step Left of Boston 
Strawberry Jam  
Synchronicity 
Tar Babies 
Tarantula Traverse 
Tea with the Queen 
Tree Crack 
Twin Cracks 
Western Front 
Y Crack 
Z Crack 
Unsorted Routes:

Smokey Overhang 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Roskelly '70
Page Views: 168
Submitted By: Scott Coldiron on Jun 20, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Climb the crack in the big roof. It is rated anywhere from 5.9 to 5.10c.


Location 

Smokey Overhang ascends the obvious crack in the large roof on the right side of the main wall.


Protection 

regular trad rack to 4"


Description 

Climb the crack in the big roof. It is rated anywhere from 5.9 to 5.10c.


Location 

Smokey Overhang ascends the obvious crack in the large roof on the right side of the main wall.


Protection 

regular trad rack to 4"



Comments on Smokey Overhang Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Volwiler
Jul 26, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

If this line is climbed off the huge boulder it is in no way a 5.9. A tall person can reach the first hand jam and then jump to a jug but you will have no feet whatsoever. If you are short you can use a total crap crimper and jam a foot but that move is more like 11d-12a. However you do the bottom its more like hard 11. The next 10 feet are slab and very easy but pulling the off-width roof is damn hard. It's totally overhung and the good jams are about 3 feet back in the crack. That and having your foot locked at about the same height as your hands makes this much harder than 5.9. If you are going to TR it have a red bd c4 for a directional or be willing to core your rope on the knife edge overhang. I watched someone do that last year.

By Chris Doll
From: Spokane
Jul 11, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fun route and the grade can change depending on where you start. I like to start on the big boulder and do the lower section with a hand jam. The shelves on the lower section are very positive on the right side if you decide the jump start. From there it's a scramble to the upper section and you're only one hand jam and foot jam away from clearing the roof. This route will become much harder once the loose hold on the upper section breaks off.