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Smokey Overhang 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Roskelly '70
Page Views: 214
Submitted By: Scott Coldiron on Jun 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Climb the crack in the big roof. It is rated anywhere from 5.9 to 5.10c.

Location 

Smokey Overhang ascends the obvious crack in the large roof on the right side of the main wall.

Protection 

regular trad rack to 4"

Description 

Climb the crack in the big roof. It is rated anywhere from 5.9 to 5.10c.

Location 

Smokey Overhang ascends the obvious crack in the large roof on the right side of the main wall.

Protection 

regular trad rack to 4"


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By Adam Volwiler
Jul 26, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

If this line is climbed off the huge boulder it is in no way a 5.9. A tall person can reach the first hand jam and then jump to a jug but you will have no feet whatsoever. If you are short you can use a total crap crimper and jam a foot but that move is more like 11d-12a. However you do the bottom its more like hard 11. The next 10 feet are slab and very easy but pulling the off-width roof is damn hard. It's totally overhung and the good jams are about 3 feet back in the crack. That and having your foot locked at about the same height as your hands makes this much harder than 5.9. If you are going to TR it have a red bd c4 for a directional or be willing to core your rope on the knife edge overhang. I watched someone do that last year.
By Chris Doll
From: Spokane
Jul 11, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route and the grade can change depending on where you start. I like to start on the big boulder and do the lower section with a hand jam (maybe a 10a or 10b). The shelves on the lower section are very positive on the right side if you decide the jump start. From there it's a scramble to the upper section and you're only one hand jam and foot jam away from clearing the roof. This route will become much harder once the loose hold on the upper section breaks off.