Smokey and the Bandit  V8 PG13

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Type:  Boulder, Alpine, 35 feet Consensus:  V8 [details] FA:  Unknown if there was an FA prior to MountainManny sending Season:  Year Round Submitted By:  MountainManny on Jul 29, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The start of the problem...this does not show to t...

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Description 

SDS on the lower inside right of the cave...just below where "Over the Rainbow" ends. Because of how heavily soot filled the cave is from fires, the line is extremely obvious. Chalk mixes nicely with the soot, it is not messy or slick.

Moving up the wall from your SDS...take the amazingly aesthetic roof line to the lip of the cave....there are lots of holds and great compression climbing to the lip.

Bomber holds on the lip await you and give you the chance to drop your feet and re-position for a kick up to a heel hook on to the right side of the cave lip. Trending to the left of the cave on the lip you will be looking for a ladder like set of crimpers that are to the right of the crux for "Over The Rainbow ". Commit and make the throw to the crimpers to topout on the 4th class ledge. This is very committing...incredibly fun, it is the "To Do" problem at this crag.

Location 

It is inside the cave...on the far right.

Protection 

Spotters and pads...it has a pretty nasty landing below the lip when you are pulling the roof. I took some serious shit eating falls on working this problem with just 1 spotter and 1 pad.