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 ADVANCED
Left Over Bun
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belly Roll Arch S 
Heart of Sharpness T 
Lumpy Rump S,TR 
Smokestack T,TR 

Smokestack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 220
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Feb 19, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: John working up the squeeze chimney.

Description 

A climbing move or two gets you to the start of a curving chimney. Pass several chockstones that offer opportunities for gear inside the chimney. Near the top, either climb deeper into the chimney and burrow through to the top, or stay on the outer edge for the more difficult finish to the anchors. Enough protection can be found along the way to keep you going, but you won't be sewing this one up where ever you'd like. It's a good introduction to climbing in chimneys.

Location 

The obvious chimney in the west side of Left Over Bun. Standing on the west side of the rock, where you can see the Sugarloaf school yard below, this feature is easy to find.

Protection 

Cams, single .5" - 1"


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By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 20, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This route has been called the "smokestack" for the past 40 years and is pretty much standard for 5.6 chimneys.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 25, 2013

Mucho gracias, Sal. Updated.