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Ol' St. Joe 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: K. Martinov & A. Pon, 2003
Season: Faces West
Page Views: 49
Submitted By: Tony B on May 31, 2012
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This is an obscure route that deserves its obscurity. This climbs a bushy corner to access a steep headwall with a single bolt and a few interesting moves.

Climb up into the corner, dodge the tree, and step out right to put a 2" cam in the thin hands crack. Mantle up onto the ledge, clip the bolt, then do the crux to the top. Was it worth it?


This route lies in a short corner below a bulging head-wall with a single bolt. This is 5 meters left of Smeat.
The corner is broken and vegetated enough (a bush and a small pine) that it is difficult to even see it as a route. It is most easily identified by the bolt on the 6' of clean rock at the top, just below a large pine.


A few cams from thin hands to hands and a draw for the bolt. A cordalette for the tree up top.

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