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Leda
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Unsorted Routes:

Smoke 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,007
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 24, 2006
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Start of smoke.

Description 

This fun climb earns its 5.10 rating for its thin face moves midway up. The name Smoke supposedly came as a result of a fire starting in the backpack of the person who put up the route.

Starting on the right side of a V-shaped recess in the wall, move through easy jugs in a cave-like formation. Puzzle your way up a mostly blank face, then to easier ground and a small roof to the top.


Location 

Starts at the right end of the wall where Girls Only and Lock Down are located, just left of House of Giza.


Protection 

Four bolts, anchors.



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By Roodbass
From: Chattanooga, TN
Mar 25, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

It was Chris Gibson's pack the fire started in while he was bolting the route.

By gWard
Jun 23, 2012

Cool route but definitely hard for the grade. The bouldery crux alone is easily v3 so 5.10 is pushing it. Maybe I just always do this one in summer when the holds are extra greasy.

By Jeremy Hand
Aug 23, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Smoke doesn't pack the same pump as Jody's down the way but the crux is significantly harder... Had to practically dyno off a terrible right... Maybe easy for the 6ft+?

By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
Oct 5, 2013

Very difficult crux at 2nd bolt. Probably enough to up its rating, but rest of route well within grade. For climbers 6'+, crux move should be easier. Also, not a good route to TR due to where the anchors are, lot of rope rub.

By Thomas Duke
From: Athens, GA
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Has a chintzy dime edge foot for the tall move to the crux which can help shorter climbers stick it... tough one-move wonder.

By Ryan Volum
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

If you climb up the arete this climb feels like a 10, but the move up the blank face is easily on par with some of the 11s at Leda