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Julia's Outcrop (Governor Lister Cliff)
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Smoke On the Water 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mathias Holladay
Season: all
Page Views: 1,374
Submitted By: nelsonthad on Nov 21, 2010
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Joe W. finishes up his smoke!

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Description 

Despite the choss, this route is so steep it has to be classic. Totally wild.


Location 

This route is just to the right of Clicking Barnackles.


Protection 

Bolts and trad.



Photos of Smoke On the Water Slideshow Add Photo
fist jam in b'ham!!
fist jam in b'ham!!
the rest before the crux
the rest before the crux
savior pocket after the crux...watch for bats!
savior pocket after the crux...watch for bats!
the final moves of "Smoke on the Water" photo: Andy Walbon
the final moves of "Smoke on the Water" photo: And...
Comments on Smoke On the Water Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 21, 2014
By smassey
From: CO
Jul 20, 2009

This line may be one of the steepest in the B'ham area. The fp has been replaced with 3/8 SS, and the anchors are over the lip. As of 7/24, the third bolt protecting the crux is still original. caveat emptor... #1,3 c4 useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. don't know if they'll hold, but they might.

By smassey
From: CO
May 8, 2011

Really curious who thought it would be a good idea to turn one of the best, steepest, 11's in the B'ham area into a 3-bolt 5.8. The first and third bolts were placed as retro-bolts last year without permission from the FA party. Weak Sauce, people. Not only that, you placed the third in a loose block. That's why it was not there in the first place. That, and that it's not needed if you're climbing 5.11. The route ends at chains on top of the cliff. I had replaced almost all the bolts, but had not finished. I will probably leave the mid-way anchor, so as to avoid a bolt war there (Matthias, do you care?), but you haven't done the route til you've clipped the top chains.

By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
May 9, 2011

WTF? If this happened here in Durango, people would be quite irate. At least you folks could ask, if not me, the B'ham climbing community. Someone did this (added an anchor for the first "easy" part so as to have another "moderate" climb) to Blackbeard's Tears down at The Promontory in Northern California. Ah well...

By smassey
From: CO
Sep 4, 2011

Well, this is just about finished re-equipping. The former 3rd bolt in a loose block was removed (not by me). If someone wants to sling some static line through the pinch above the first anchor, that'd be fine with me. I haven't had time. As it stands, clip 2 bolts, then the lower anchor, then sling the pinch, commit to the undercling, clipping an awkward new 1/2x5" SS bolt (rock quality dictated the placement), to good shake, clip new 1/2x 2.75" SS, to the jug, one last bolt, then the sloping topout to the left and up. Fixe chains and rings on top.

By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 22, 2011

Scott, you deserve a beer!

By nelsonthad
From: Everett, wa
Jan 16, 2012

Dear SMassey, Mathias Holladay, and climbing community, I would like to apologize for turning the bottom half of smoke on the water into a 5.8. I did not intend to offend anyone rather I was trying to maximize the little rain sheltered climbing we have in w. WA. for the benefit of the whole climbing community. Due to the complaints I have removed all the bolts and chain that I placed on this route and filled the holes, returning it to it's former splendor.

By smassey
From: CO
Jan 17, 2012

Nelsonthad-
From my perspective, thank you for both the apology and fixing it. I appreciate your intention.
If you want to contribute positively to the climbing community, there are tons of garbage bolts at Mt. Erie and other places around WA that need to be replaced. If you're around during the summer, I can always use a hand. If not, I can put you in touch with folks that are replacing in the spring or fall.
cheers, scott

By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Jan 17, 2012

Yes, ditto on what Scott said and thanks for your post. I sincerely am glad you and others are frequenting Julia's Outcrop and enjoying those interesting moves. Post some more fotografs when you get a moment and if there's trail work cuz of erosion issues, help out there, perhaps...

By Max Illman
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 11, 2013

amazing climb with great hand, fist and foot jams to be had. slung a new piece of tat through the pinch on 7/7/13. thanks to everyone who has improved the climbing here.

By Andy Walbon
From: Bellingham,WA
Jul 13, 2013

Best climb in Bellingham!! The 4th bolt is behind an edge. It seems to saw your protection if you fall. helps to bring a longer runner with two strands.

By smassey
From: CO
Aug 6, 2013

Nice! glad folks are getting on this. wish that bolt could've been in a better position... A 2-3' threaded rod glue-in might be sufficient to go through the flake where you really want the clip...

By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Mar 21, 2014

Named after the Deep Purple song, as well as the fog over the water one morning . . .