Smoke on the Water
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Chris Deulen in the midst of the traverse.
Currently the first route on the left of the overhang, this amazing 11c starts from a sketchy belay, going to a large block that may fall off in 50 years. There is a glued hold just above the first bolt. The 3rd bolt starts the move to the right. A jug seems to magically appear whenever the holds run out. You may find yourself pumped out and epic-ing by the time you get to the somewhat of a downclimb crux near the last two bolts. Gain a good side pull, then jug to the last two convenient open gate anchors with a third bolt between the two with a biner. It's pretty sick to end 30 feet to the right of where you started, getting lowered past your belayer into the air of the huge open Punchbowl.
This is the first route on the left when you enter the area. There was a dead cow directly behind this route on the hill last time we were there (Labor Day '06).
8 bolts, I believe.
|Comments on Smoke on the Water
|By Nate Adams|
Mar 5, 2007
Chris - I've been able to contact several first ascentionists for Lime Creek - not much info is available as far as route names, etc. for the Punchbowl. All of the existing lines were there before I set foot in Lime Park. I'd say the statute of limitations for route naming has expired, unless someone out there has beta. I vote for "To Send is Bovine".
|By chris deulen|
Apr 5, 2007
Nate, thanks for the vote! I forgot to include that the name was a suggestion, rather than a firmly established title. I will gladly change it should the FFAist step forward. I hope that cow is gone by the time we return this summer!
|By Nate Adams|
Jan 26, 2008
The route is actually called Smoke on the Water, put up by Mike Argueso & Peter Noebels in 1998.