Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Steve Sangdahl, John Baldwin, Tom Englebach, 1996
Page Views: 1,232 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Jul 8, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Decent climbing, but short. As Rolofson says, "Don't be fooled", it's much harder than it looks. Angle left past the first bolt and mantle onto a ledge. Move left around the arete and up to the roof. At this point you are just right of Wired which escapes out left around the roof. Layback the right side of the roof, crux, via one of at least two methods.

This felt much harder to everyone in our group of 3 than either Consilience or Gyromancy which we had done clean earlier in the day. We all fell and hung several times on Smoke Down. Perhaps it's not technically harder, but it's harder to do clean due to the steepness and treachery of the layback.

Location Suggest change

On the right side of Black Widow where the rock becomes really grungy. Just right of Wired, a right-facing, right leaning trad corner capped by a roof.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor with rings.

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