Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Left Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A White Bread World 
Blade Runner 
Bus Stop to Nowhere 
Butternuts 
Central Scrutinizer  
Dihedral of Dagmar 
Dirty Deed 
Earth Diver 
Earth Puller 
Flashflood 
Follow your Doubt 
Fool's Progress 
Giardia Crack 
Guacamole 
I'm On My Bike 
Insomnia 
Inz and Outz 
Mental Health 
Midwestern Gangster 
More Anus Than Heinous 
Morticia 
Most Excellent 
Nervous Breakdown 
Ninja Warrior 
Noggin 'Nocker 
Original Sin 
Outrageous 
Phlegm Of Fury 
Pyrrhic Victory 
Righteous Dump 
Rising Sun 
Slaughterfall 
Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs 
Spite and Malice 
Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty 
Sword, The 
Terminator 
Thick and Thin 
Tombstone 
Tyrant, The 
Uncle Fister 
Vertebrae 
What are you on? 

Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jason Keith
Page Views: 3,636
Submitted By: Kole DeCou on Aug 23, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment 

Nick S. in the fingers/stemming section during his...

Description 

Another nice pumpy crack climb. Your experience on this climb will depend on the length of your legs and the size of your hands. (Big hands and short legs would be a bad combination.)


Location 

Hard to describe without a picture. Starts under a small roof about 30' right of the pinnacle.


Protection 

Coubles to #3 Camalot, with 3 #0.75's and 3 #1s.



Comments on Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs Add Comment
Show which comments
By dsmit
From: Flagstaff, Az
Nov 5, 2012

Super cool, the only detraction is the chossy start. Thin hands stemming warms you up for the final fingers stem box. Be sure to save some yellow/orange met. for the end. The name alone gives this three stars!

By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Jun 17, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The starting area is identified by a small flat 3’ x 2’ boulder sitting alone at the base. The route goes up the chossy hand crack to a small roof. Pull the roof on the left hand side and enjoy the great stemming & jamming to the top.

Suggested rack is on with the 3x .75-1’s, but I’d drop the 3’s(or maybe only bring one). The only place you’d use it is low and there’s lots of options. Don’t forget to bring a few tips and finger sized cams for the section above the roof.

It doesn’t look like much from the ground, but once you pull the low roof it becomes great fun all the way to the chains.