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Smoke and Mirrors Boulder
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Novocain Stain 
Smoke and Mirrors 

Smoke and Mirrors 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 14'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6- Font: 7A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,104
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Dec 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Sloper central...

Description 

Sit start in the "cave" with both hands left of the arete on crimps but with big feet. (There is also a really small crimp just right of the arete proper that I normally use because I feel it puts my body in position better.) Pull off the ground to match on the large slopey shelf. From here power up the arete using holds on either side of the arete. To obvious top out holds on the right side of the arete.

Foot work and sequence is key to sending this route. The kemple guide has it listed as only climbing the left side of the arete, however that is very contrived and making use of both sides of the arete flows better and still sustains the grade of V6.

Location 

This problem is situated just right and back of the Pound Crack Boulder. If you stand at The Blot and turn around you will see this problem, looks intense.

On the map on the Pound main page this is located on the "Smoke and Mirrors Boulder" (If you couldnt guess...)

Protection 

Pads and spotter.


Photos of Smoke and Mirrors Slideshow Add Photo
Hard first move!
Hard first move!

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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 24, 2009

This route is super classic, finally sent it today, it wasnt the prettiest thing to watch but it dont matter to me! First V6!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 24, 2009

NICE WORK MATT!!!
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 25, 2009

Thanks Lee
By Luke W.
From: Prescott
Jun 13, 2012
rating: V5 6C

The "more natural" start uses the two crimps below the slopers.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 13, 2012

INdeed it does start on the two crimps below the big sloper... ill fix it sorry about that

Edit: I rewrote the full description to better represent the route.
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Aug 6, 2012

Tried it out this past weekend. Temps/humidity were awful but the problem was cool. Hopefully I'll have better luck in some cooler weather.
By Zane Dordai
Aug 20, 2012

I used the little crimper for my right hand that is described and the better crimp (out of the two seriously chalked low things) in my left and did a big move left hand to the slopers to start. that felt like the coolest, lowest, and most natural start to me. the arete holds on the right side are so cool!! great texture. sent in crazy humidity; the rock is so grippy you don't need good temps, just good skin...and get it on your first few burns! One of the best in the pound.