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 ADVANCED
Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beck's Bet T 
Double Dogleg T 
Euthyphro T 
Fortune Cookie T 
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 
Personal Space TR 
Pop Rocks T 
Rock Candy T 
Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 
Rock-a-Lot T 
Silent But Deadly T 
Smithereens T 
Spitwad T 
Split Personality T 
Top of the Pops T 
Yi T 
Young Lust T 

Smithereens 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Kaufer and Scott Hoyle, 1979
Page Views: 2,348
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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Kyle and Jodi enjoying a lap on Smithereens.

Description 

This route and it's neighbor (Young Lust) lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.

Boulder up (small wire helpful) into a thin crack (crux), pass a horizontal around mid-height and then move past a large flake/ear and many features to finish in a right-slanting thin crack. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.

Roughly the same difficulty as Young Lust, but the varied climbing and more interesting moves make this the better of the two routes. Two stars out of five.

Protection 

pro to 2", bolted anchor/rap (3/8")


Photos of Smithereens Slideshow Add Photo
Joe leading Smiterheens with Richard belaying. In ...
Joe leading Smiterheens with Richard belaying. In ...
Just getting started.  Photo by Neale Brain.
Just getting started. Photo by Neale Brain.
Jonny on Smithereens.
Jonny on Smithereens.
Another must do climb if in the area.    We were a...
Another must do climb if in the area. We were a...

Comments on Smithereens Add Comment
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By Andy
Oct 30, 2005
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Enjoyable. Easy to protect, but watch for things that might break off. The '92 Vogel guide lists it as a 5.9
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
May 4, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb is great fun - it is much better than it looks. The crack eats gear, and the horns are mostly huge jugs.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Every route on this wall is worth doing. If you walk up here - do them all as well as the several to the right.
By Canon
Nov 17, 2012

Great pro! Nuts for days! Very similar to Young Lust, and just as fun (if not more fun!)