|Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
This route and it's neighbor (Young Lust) lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.
Boulder up (small wire helpful) into a thin crack (crux), pass a horizontal around mid-height and then move past a large flake/ear and many features to finish in a right-slanting thin crack. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.
Roughly the same difficulty as Young Lust, but the varied climbing and more interesting moves make this the better of the two routes. Two stars out of five.
pro to 2", bolted anchor/rap (3/8")
Joe leading Smiterheens with Richard belaying. In ...
Jonny on Smithereens.
Oct 30, 2005
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Enjoyable. Easy to protect, but watch for things that might break off. The '92 Vogel guide lists it as a 5.9
|By Dr. Evil|
From: Boulder, CO
May 4, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This climb is great fun - it is much better than it looks. The crack eats gear, and the horns are mostly huge jugs.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Every route on this wall is worth doing. If you walk up here - do them all as well as the several to the right.
Nov 17, 2012
Great pro! Nuts for days! Very similar to Young Lust, and just as fun (if not more fun!)