Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Ed Kaufer and Scott Hoyle, 1979
Page Views: 5,734 total · 25/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route and it's neighbor (Young Lust) lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.

Boulder up (small wire helpful) into a thin crack (crux), pass a horizontal around mid-height and then move past a large flake/ear and many features to finish in a right-slanting thin crack. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.

Roughly the same difficulty as Young Lust, but the varied climbing and more interesting moves make this the better of the two routes. Two stars out of five.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to to 2 inches, bolted anchor/rap (1/2")

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