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Smith Rock State Park, ropegun needed, visitors invited.
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By Dallas R
Apr 2, 2014

Smith Rock State Park, 605 routes +. My wife and I will be running the Visitor Center Thu-Sun, 9am till 3pm April and May 2014.

We are also age appropriate rock climbers. That means we aren't that good but would love to go with younger more agile climbers that are willing to ropegun 5.5-5.9 routes. Okay, at 58 years of age we will probably never be 5.10+ climbers.

Our project during this time will be Round River on the Marsupials. We have lots of Trad. We are going to wait for it to warm up a bit though, as evidenced by the attached photo it's still a little chilly.

But we love the sport and we do what we can. We have a copy of the new climbing book by Alan Watts and have a general idea of what's where, including the latest on Bald Eagle, Golden Eagle, and Falcon Closures. So even if you don't want to climb with us please stop by the visitor center and chat. We would love to hear what your plans are and what you have accomplished.

Dallas and Barbara

Chilly Marsupials, April 1, 2014
Chilly Marsupials, April 1, 2014


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By Dallas R
Apr 20, 2014

Thanks to the folks that have replied to this. We really enjoy meeting climbers and have almost as much fun watching better climbers lead as we do making the climb ourselves.


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By Dallas R
Apr 21, 2014

Barbara leading Lollypop
Barbara leading Lollypop


We scouted around Adit and found a way to top rope Parking Lot Crack and Instant Replay. Monday looks like a great day for climbing.


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By Toby Butterfield
From Portland, OR
Apr 21, 2014
Fear and Loathing.

This is awesome. If I were still in my bivy-dwelling days I'd be stoked to take you around! Glad you're finding people to climb with.


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By Dallas R
Apr 22, 2014

Cloudy, breezy, some drizzly rain. We got Instant Replay, Parking Lot Crack, and Lollypop again. Hoping someone will step up to lead something 5.8ish on Tuesday after the rain stops.

Over the top of Parking Lot Crack
Over the top of Parking Lot Crack


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By lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Apr 22, 2014
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Struttin.

Oh man, I miss that place. Cover my plane fare and I'd be tempted to spend a week with ya'll out there. Good luck, climb safe.


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Apr 22, 2014
Mt. Agassiz

Dallas R wrote:
We scouted around Adit and found a way to top rope Parking Lot Crack and Instant Replay. Monday looks like a great day for climbing.


Watch that rope behind the leg...

and keep up the fun!


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By Dallas R
Apr 29, 2014

What a great day for climbing. No takers on the ropegun, so we stuck to our 5.5-5.7 climbs. Purple headed warrior on west ship river face. There was a scraggly climb to the left of it. 5.5-5.6. Very trashy. We finished up on Easy Reader on Cinnamon.

Kevin (rock hippie in the bivy) was nice enough to point out that I should have tied into the rope close to the bolts rather than the end direct to the anchor. This way I would not have too much swing should I take a fall. We are never too proud to learn.

Barbara tested a new short stick pin. Being shorter she sometimes can't reach the next bolt by mere inches. Her new stick pin adds a foot to her reach.

We easily recognize that we are the bottom of the ability list as far as climbing goes. To our left was a team of 3 that was doing a 5.9 to 5.13 multi-pitch. As we were walking over to Cinnamon we spotted some slackliners that had to have climbed a couple of 5.11+'s just to get to where they were, then they were walking the slackline across. Way above what we will ever be able to do, but totally awesome to watch.


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Apr 29, 2014
Mt. Agassiz

Who cares about the grade? Awesome that you're getting out there!


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By Justin22
From Redlands, CA
Apr 29, 2014
Jumpin

I'd be a ropegun for you guys if I was closer. I live in Southern California and I find it funny that it is just getting warm enough to climb there as it is starting to get too hot here to climb. My local crag was 96 degrees when I climbed a couple weeks ago.


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By Dallas R
Apr 29, 2014

Thanks Justin. I appreciate the thought. Because we are retired we have the ability to chase the temperature zone. We had an excellent day today around 65. A lot warmer on the sunny side of the rock with no wind, but totally excellent.

Unfortunately after Smith Rock we are headed north to the Cascades in Washington, not south into California.

We will meet up on the next revolution... climb on!


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By mc kaiser
From Boulder, CO
May 16, 2014
Me

Hey Dallas!
Love your attitude! I'll be in Eugene on the 28th, and may be able to make my way over there to do some climbing. You also mentioned you were heading up to the cascades! If I don't make it to Smith, I'll be up in the Leavenworth region hopefully doing some climbing around there for a few days from the 31st of May to the 2nd of June. If you all want, I'd love to put up some routes if you swing by there on your way north!
Either way enjoy the rest of your time in Smith!
Patrick


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By Dallas R
May 16, 2014

Patrick, the 28th is a climbing day. I'll see if I can figure out how to PM fro this site.


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By Dallas R
May 29, 2014

Our time here is coming to an end. Two more days of running the visitor center then we head out. If you can make Enchanted Rock in TX we will be there in October.

Thanks to all that have been helpful and considerate to us during our stay at Smith Rock State Park.


A relaxing day on the rock
A relaxing day on the rock


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