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Smith Rock first timer

Original Post
Ryan Watkins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 0

Heading up to Smith the first week of may for the first time. We'll be there for probably 3 climbing days. Can anyone offer suggestions as to where to start, or routes that shouldn't be missed?
Looking for routes in the 9 to low 12 range to accommodate everyone in the party.

smithygreg · · Portland,OR · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 70

I recommend picking up the Smith Rock Select Guidebook.

wolverinepublishing.com/gui…

It has great route descriptions and pictures and it will give you a lot of good information about the climbs at Smith...
One of the things I like about Smith is that there is such a high concentration of great climbs in such a small area...It shouldn't be hard to find an excellent climb if you just walk the trail for a short while.
Have fun..I hope it's not too crowded!

Evan1984 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30

There is a 5.7 multi-pitch route called Monkey Face(I don't know if its the route name or formation).

Anyway, it is a gear climb with a bolt ladder that goes at A0. Its a little below your grade requirement but awesome. I did the bolt ladder by clipping draws and pulling on them without aiders, but my girlfriend had trouble with the arm strength to do it. Bring a couple steps if this might be an issue.

Evan

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

Lower Gorge is a good place if you like crack climbing. Also if the front side is crowded go to the backside, it was never crowded when I was there.

Also I like the older Alan Watts guidebook way better than the select book mentioned above. The select book is good, but very small.

Mark Hammond · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 466

Astro Monkey. Classic and my favorite that I have done at Smith.
Ideal to warm up if possible, it's hard right off the ground.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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