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Pratt's Overhang 
Smith Overhang 

Smith Overhang 

V8

   
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Type: Boulder, 10 feet
Consensus: V7-8 [details]
FA: Richard Smith, 1967 (but surely not the V8 version? Chip?)
Submitted By: adam brink on Jan 8, 2003

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Description 

This is one of Flagstaff's best problems and requires a maximum of body tension. For the V8, start on the slick as snot right hand side pull and either a pinch or mono for the left. Pop up with the left to the glued side pull and continue making hard moves to the slopey top out. You have to want this one bad to send it.

For the easier start (maybe V6?), start from a cheat stone with the right hand on the slick side pull and the left in the glued high opposing sidepull. Make the same moves to the top.


Protection 

Bring a pad because one can pop off with explosive force from a number of moves.



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By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 13, 2003

Good contribution, Adam.

FYI: the FA was done by Richard Smith in 1967 from the higher start, as he was like 6'5" and the ground has eroded away substantially. Note that the left handhold which has some glue behind it now used to be much better.

By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Apr 3, 2004

Actually, this is miscataloged - Smith Overhang is a problem, not a separate rock. Smith Overhang is found on the Pratt's Overhang block. BTW - P.B. & B.H. refer to this as Smith's Overhang while P.A. calls it Smith Overhang. I have always heard it referred to as Smith Overhang. It used to be that you always saw a cheater block under this problem for the start. The 2000 B.H B.O.B.B called this V5, surely describing the then standard cheater stone start. It seems that in the last few years that the harder off the ground variant has become widely accepted as the 'true" Smith Overhang. It's V8 and maybe V9 when starting from the ground, i.e. start low before the glued sidepull.

By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 5, 2004

FWIW, the sit start to the Smith Overhang based on everything I've heard has not been done.

Looking for a double digit FA??? ... go get it!

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 5, 2008

I did Smith Overhang this morning before work and started to put together a sequence that might work for the sit-start. If you start from the jug low and go right to the "big" sidepull, out left there is a terrible crimp for the left hand that might allow a right hand on the bad sidepull. Finish from there as for Smith Overhang. I would estimate V12 to V13.

If you're really tall, you might be able to get the glued sidepull undercling but letting go could be tough. Probably easier than holding the crimp though.

By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 11, 2010

Admins ... let's try this again:

FA: Richard Smith, 1967

By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 11, 2010

Quote: "FA: Richard Smith, 1967 (but surely not the V8 version? Chip?)"

You are technically correct. The V8 version was not done until the ground eroded. To date, the ground has eroded about 2 feet. IMHO, Richard Smith should still be given credit for the FA on this, but that's just me.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 1, 2011